Trailering
#1
Trailering
Seeking opinions on trailering. Has anyone ever gone long distance using an enclosed trailer without a chock? In other words, just using tie downs. It would not seem safe to me, but since I have never trailered before, I don't know. All opinions welcome, except those that say "don't trailer." It's not a choice for me this time. Thanks.
Ted
Ted
#2
I've trailered many times...with enclosed and open trailers...and always use a wheel chock. Even a simple, inexpensive wheel chock will keep the front wheel from vibrating L & R and keep the bike straight in the trailer. But of course you can spend about as much as you want on a wheel chock or wheel locking system.
If the front wheel shifts L or R during trailering that will usually cause tie down slack on one side or the other and the bike will eventually work it's way loose and end up against the trailer wall. Remember..with an open trailer you can keep watch on the bike for loosening tie downs...with an enclosed trailer you're trusting your tie down system entirely. You don't want to open that trailer door and find any surprises at the end of your trip. There are lots of wheel chock options out there in all kinds of price ranges. The trailer I bought (from another biker) came with a simple tube metal wheel chock...the kind you can get just about anywhere.. When in use, it latches into a couple of small metal receivers that bolt to the trailer floor. It's not fancy or expensive, and there are certainly better and more expensive ones out there, but it does the job well and I've never had a problem with the bike shifting around in transit. Chock it....for peace of mind and happy trailering.
more wheel chocks here:
http://www.motorcycleramps.com/motor...FQgNDQodlUZ_SQ
If the front wheel shifts L or R during trailering that will usually cause tie down slack on one side or the other and the bike will eventually work it's way loose and end up against the trailer wall. Remember..with an open trailer you can keep watch on the bike for loosening tie downs...with an enclosed trailer you're trusting your tie down system entirely. You don't want to open that trailer door and find any surprises at the end of your trip. There are lots of wheel chock options out there in all kinds of price ranges. The trailer I bought (from another biker) came with a simple tube metal wheel chock...the kind you can get just about anywhere.. When in use, it latches into a couple of small metal receivers that bolt to the trailer floor. It's not fancy or expensive, and there are certainly better and more expensive ones out there, but it does the job well and I've never had a problem with the bike shifting around in transit. Chock it....for peace of mind and happy trailering.
more wheel chocks here:
http://www.motorcycleramps.com/motor...FQgNDQodlUZ_SQ
Last edited by duoglider; 04-16-2009 at 12:42 PM.
#3
A buddy of mine simply mounted a couple 2x4s to the floor of his trailer. They work fine to hold the wheel and help to hold the bike upright while tieing it down.
I did invest is some wheel chocks from Harbor freight (on sale for $19), mounted them on an open trailer, they work. Holds the bike better than the 2x4s.
For years I hauled many bikes in the back of my truck, just straps and never had any of them move.
I did invest is some wheel chocks from Harbor freight (on sale for $19), mounted them on an open trailer, they work. Holds the bike better than the 2x4s.
For years I hauled many bikes in the back of my truck, just straps and never had any of them move.
#4
With properly placed straps you don't need the chock. Just put the bike on it's jiffy stand and strap it down. Basically as long as the straps will hold the bike from going in any direction and the bike is also pulled down (which the floor mounted hooks will do) you will be just fine.
#5
Over the years, I've hauled both cars and bikes several times, open as well as enclosed trailers. All good advice above, especially about using some type of chock. IMHO, one important thing not to forget is checking your tiedown straps often!!! Especially, shortly after you start off. After your initial check, usually just check them when you stop for gas or food and normally you should be fine. Also, I always trailer with car or bike in neutral.
#6
Use any wheel chock and a 6X6 block of wood underneath the frame. (Protect the frame with anything). This way when you compress the bike, you do not compress the suspention. It will make a solid contact with the frame and the wood. I use a 4" heavy duty strap around the frame just in front of the gas tank. Again, use anything to protect the frame. The bike will not move this way it will be one solid contact with the trailer. This is how I do it and trailer from VA to Daytone every year.
#7
Great feedback all. Thanks very much. Wife and I are going to Yellowstone/Tetons/Beartooth area mid-June to visit family and wife is just not up to riding there and back. I've ridden out to Sturgis twice from Michigan, did Lake Superior Circle Tour, and rode down and along the entire length of the Blue Ridge Parkway, so I am very much looking forward to the riding out west.
Ted
Ted
Trending Topics
#8
a wheel choke is a good thing. do not use the stand. do not block the frame. pull the suspension to near the bottom with the tie downs. this is the best way. no you will not hurt the fork seals or the springs. I personally bottom out my front suspension when tying down. everyone has an opinion on how to do this. my way just happens to be right.
#10
got this one
I've trailered many times...with enclosed and open trailers...and always use a wheel chock. Even a simple, inexpensive wheel chock will keep the front wheel from vibrating L & R and keep the bike straight in the trailer. But of course you can spend about as much as you want on a wheel chock or wheel locking system.
If the front wheel shifts L or R during trailering that will usually cause tie down slack on one side or the other and the bike will eventually work it's way loose and end up against the trailer wall. Remember..with an open trailer you can keep watch on the bike for loosening tie downs...with an enclosed trailer you're trusting your tie down system entirely. You don't want to open that trailer door and find any surprises at the end of your trip. There are lots of wheel chock options out there in all kinds of price ranges. The trailer I bought (from another biker) came with a simple tube metal wheel chock...the kind you can get just about anywhere.. When in use, it latches into a couple of small metal receivers that bolt to the trailer floor. It's not fancy or expensive, and there are certainly better and more expensive ones out there, but it does the job well and I've never had a problem with the bike shifting around in transit. Chock it....for peace of mind and happy trailering.
more wheel chocks here:
http://www.motorcycleramps.com/motor...FQgNDQodlUZ_SQ
If the front wheel shifts L or R during trailering that will usually cause tie down slack on one side or the other and the bike will eventually work it's way loose and end up against the trailer wall. Remember..with an open trailer you can keep watch on the bike for loosening tie downs...with an enclosed trailer you're trusting your tie down system entirely. You don't want to open that trailer door and find any surprises at the end of your trip. There are lots of wheel chock options out there in all kinds of price ranges. The trailer I bought (from another biker) came with a simple tube metal wheel chock...the kind you can get just about anywhere.. When in use, it latches into a couple of small metal receivers that bolt to the trailer floor. It's not fancy or expensive, and there are certainly better and more expensive ones out there, but it does the job well and I've never had a problem with the bike shifting around in transit. Chock it....for peace of mind and happy trailering.
more wheel chocks here:
http://www.motorcycleramps.com/motor...FQgNDQodlUZ_SQ