Mine has a 98" Millenium cyclinder kit, woods gear drive cams, S&S gear drive, Wiseco forged moly pistons 10.5:1 and even with going up one tooth on the primary front sprocket, pulled 89/108 on the dyno

 

My Springer was punched out to 103", Woods TW6-6 cams, heads/cylinders/pistons machined by Baisley, Stage I, Zipper air filter, Fat Cat exhaust and a good dyno tune - 101hp/107tq and it is smooth power. It is still a low compression engine, too. I seem to recall the compression is onlty 9.8:1. Doc in Florida did the whole thing and I remember it being under $4,000 for everything including the tune.

 

100 reliable HP is achievable at 96ci. HD HTCC heads, SE throttle body, intake manifold, and air cleaner. SERT, good pipes, Andrews gear drive cams. Seen it done on a friend’s street glide. If your local dealer installs everything they probably will warranty it. But it depends on the dealer and your relationship with the dealer.

 

Just buy a Yamaha Raider. 113 inches, 125 ft lbs torque right out of the box. $13k and you're good.

Naw, but look for torque numbers, not HP. Torque is what you'll use in a practical sense. You'd rather have a higher torque number than a higher HP number, if they are significantly different.

If you find that you can increase torque significantly and a lot cheaper than increasing both Hp and torque, you can settle for the torque. 90 HP and 100 ft lbs torque should move it right out.

Since torque is most useful at lower rpms (say 1500 - 4000 rpm,) and HP most useful at higher rpms, you might find you could avoid higher compression, radical cams and even head work.

Torque, to oversimplify, is "immediate raw twisting power" (at the crank) and HP, to oversimplify is "power sustained over time." You use torque to get it moving while accelerating from a stop light to highway speeds. You use HP to sustain cruise at 80 mph. - again, all oversimplified but it makes the point.

Radical cams lower your effective compression ratio by loss from overlap mainly. Thus, radical cams call for increased CR. Radical cams kill low end power and kick in at higher rpms. Radical cams need bigger valves and head work since they work at higher rpms and need to flow more air. Torquey cams work at lower rpms and actually need smaller valves and runners to increase the velocity of the fuel/air at lower rpms.

In sum, unless you want to spend big bucks, you already have enough cubes. Talk torque to your builder with a stage 2 and you should be able to see 100 ft lbs torque at 2500 rpm, and a strong pull from 1500 rpms on a budget.

Frankly, for normal street use, I dont give a rip what the dyno numbers show above 4500 rpm.

$.02

PS OK, finished my coffee.

If it were my bike, it would get S&S 510 gear drive cams with new cam bearings and adjustable pushrods ($1200?) a better breather ($150?) and 2 into 1 exhaust ($600?) and whatever you like for an electronic tuner, and a dyno tune. $2,500 total? It's said that the twinkie 88 heads breath better than the 96" heads and they are cheap as new take-offs. You'd have the additional cost of R&R, but you wouldn't need the adjustable push rods so you'd save maybe $150 there.

 

Mine is a 2007 RKC with a 103", 10.5.1 forged pistons, SE260 cams, springs, SERT, over 100/100 and seems to be great for 1 or 2 up and reliable...all parts are Harley Screamin Eagle and I got plenty out of it...

 

Go with Mackie! The dealer here actually ships their parts to him for their customers and install it on the bikes to keep the warranty. You'll definetly want to get the S&S cam gears instead of the HP robbing chain that HD installs, Thunderheader 2-1 or SuperTrapp 2-1 (2-1 is best for HP) and that Mackie kit will give you more than enough to toss your head back, even 2 up.

 

Best thing I can tell ya,is if ya wanna stay with an American bike....ya better buy a Victory.

 

There are a few Sreamin Eagle big bore kits that will get you there.

I expect mine will be dependable, considering HD is willing to warranty it.

 

Turbo!!!

 

contact bean, he will give you the best deal on heads and set you straight on what parts you need.

http://www.bigboyzcycles.com/