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Engine Oil Flush-Suggestions?

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  #21  
Old 03-18-2009, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cbigbie191
Run a quality oil and change it regularly. That's it.
I'm with that.
 
  #22  
Old 03-18-2009, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TFTCAR
I have been working on engines for 25 years, like the last post change your oil 3500 to 4000 miles and use a good filter, Your motor will stay spotless inside. Do not waste your money on flushes, they can do more harm than good under some circumstances.I have seen some additives that eat seals and gaskets, use a good oil and filter and change it often.
This guy is right, too. Flushes can goof up at least as much as they help. Use good quality oil and change it and filter every 3,000 miles.
 
  #23  
Old 03-18-2009, 08:38 AM
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A lesson I have learned the hard way a few times - If it ain't broke,don't fix it!!!!
 
  #24  
Old 03-18-2009, 09:03 AM
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Funny what this Forum turns up----in the 50's when I started riding I was in contact with a shop mechanic that used RED-X a petroleum based oil addative in all the companies trucks-door to door delivery idling all day the addative was for the motor oil BUT he added a few ounces to the gas tanks of the trucks---a trick he learned while looking after bikes in the WW11, I have always added some type of lube to the gas of my vehicles, and when planning a clean up of my bikes, I change oil add a quart--Magic Mystery Oil is current favorite --ride, change oil and filter and am good to go.

Upper cylinder lubrication cannot hurt if it is done in moderation. Oil lets the things go round!!!!!!!

I used to be a real good speller , seems to have gone to crap.
 
  #25  
Old 03-18-2009, 09:46 AM
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+1 with sportsterleroy, a $20 tool and a couple extra quarts of oil is all you need. Or $139 for the rogue choppers tool, hmmmmm. Unless you can smell fuel in your oil or you're concerned about some other contamination I wouldn't flush but maybe every 10k mi.
 
  #26  
Old 03-18-2009, 02:13 PM
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Old guys talk about a 5 qt oil change where you change the oil and leave the filter off. Crank and run the bike until the oil coming out where the filter should be is clean, usually less than a quart. Shut it down and then install the filter an top the oil tank off. I do this about every 4th oil change. It ocsts one extra qt and after 147,500 my evo is still with factory specs for compression, does not smoke, runs smoothly (for an evo) and as wellas when it was new. I do change oil every 2500 miles and surprisingly use Castrol GTX 20w50 dino oil. Get it at walmart and it's cheap but good oil. Course this is just what I do but how can you argue with the results? Bubba
 
  #27  
Old 03-18-2009, 02:59 PM
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Think about it this way. If you use a flush how does that flush work. Well it has to run all that crap through the engine to get it to the filter, I know the oil goes to the filter first but what if that filter is in bypass??? Pluse how long does that crud keep breaking loose in the oil lines, comming out of the head, stirring up in the crank case??

Change oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles and just rock on. Or pull the oil tank and clean it off of the bike. Replace all oil lines. Open the nose cone and inspect it, in no crud then carry on.

I use HD 20w-50 dino oil and have 89,000mi on my bike...Hit a piece of broken pavement the other day and punched a hole in the oil pan. When I pulled the oil pan it looked like it was brand new, not one bit of sluge/crud anywhere. Aluminum welded it back up and put it back on the bike.

IOW I wouldn't do it, unless I was going to tear down the engine.
 
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