Trimming of Windshield
#13
03-12-2009, 08:58 PM
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I vote glass shops. they can even polish it and buff out any imperfections. If you do it yourself and make the slightest slip you'll look at that spot every time you get on the bike. It will haunt you. In this case pay up and be happy.
#15
03-12-2009, 10:40 PM
I called several glass companies in the DFW area and none of them would cut a windshield for me. Said they used but got tired of replacing windshields when customer claimed they had scratched the windshield.
sporty06
sporty06
#17
03-13-2009, 07:39 AM
I dropped my windscreen off at a glass shop and picked it up the next day for $25. Actually the glass shop referred me to a plastic shop that manufactures boat windscreens and they did it. The dealership, or the salesman, or the glass shop will be able to refer you if you don't want to do it yourself.
Last edited by barjbar; 03-13-2009 at 07:43 AM.
#18
03-13-2009, 11:05 AM
I must have gone to the wrong glass company! They charged me $50 to do my wife's windshield off her Deluxe. My bad; I did request a rush on it as we were leaving the next day on a road trip.
#19
03-13-2009, 12:32 PM
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If you're a do it yourself person, here you go..
Step 1.
Make a template using mount board to get the desired curvature. Mark the windshield using a fine sharpie along the template. Remove the windshield from the motorcycle. Mask the at the template line and make sure the tape is at least 4 to 6 inches high, on both sides of the windshield so to protect the windshield from scratches when you cut. Use good quality tape.
Step 3.
Cut on the concave side using a jigsaw at low speed with a wood blade along the top of the tape or just inside the mark. Go slowly and evenly and do not press hard or you will tear the tape and possibly scratch the windshield. Place a thin piece of cardboard over the outer, curved edge of the windshield when you cut. As you cut along the tape, place some masking tape along the tail end of the cut and secure it to the main shield to prevent the cut piece from vibrating. Remove the tape.
Step 4.
Stand the windshield upright, wrap an old sheet around it and sand the cut edge. Start with 80-grit sandpaper in a palm sander or wrapped around a wood block, then repeat with 220-grit for a smooth finish.
Step 5.
Apply a very thin film of a universal solvent, methyl ethyl keytone works best, which "melts" plastic, by placing a small amount on a rag. This gives the windshield a very smooth, clean edge (Be carefull you don't get any of the MEK on the windshield as it will permanently damage the plastic). Re-attach the windshield to your motorcycle.
Step 1.
Make a template using mount board to get the desired curvature. Mark the windshield using a fine sharpie along the template. Remove the windshield from the motorcycle. Mask the at the template line and make sure the tape is at least 4 to 6 inches high, on both sides of the windshield so to protect the windshield from scratches when you cut. Use good quality tape.
Step 3.
Cut on the concave side using a jigsaw at low speed with a wood blade along the top of the tape or just inside the mark. Go slowly and evenly and do not press hard or you will tear the tape and possibly scratch the windshield. Place a thin piece of cardboard over the outer, curved edge of the windshield when you cut. As you cut along the tape, place some masking tape along the tail end of the cut and secure it to the main shield to prevent the cut piece from vibrating. Remove the tape.
Step 4.
Stand the windshield upright, wrap an old sheet around it and sand the cut edge. Start with 80-grit sandpaper in a palm sander or wrapped around a wood block, then repeat with 220-grit for a smooth finish.
Step 5.
Apply a very thin film of a universal solvent, methyl ethyl keytone works best, which "melts" plastic, by placing a small amount on a rag. This gives the windshield a very smooth, clean edge (Be carefull you don't get any of the MEK on the windshield as it will permanently damage the plastic). Re-attach the windshield to your motorcycle.
This will do the trick!
I worked at a glass shop as a kid, and we did pretty much the same thing when working with lexan.
Only things I would change is:
If you're gonna use a jigsaw use plenty of tape so the saws base will not rip through to the Lexan. Use a metal jigsaw blade (finer thread) so it will not jump and create cracks ruining you windshield. Make certain the saw base sits flat on the windshield surface for the same reasons.
Use painters tape so it will not leave any adhesive behind.
Another option to the Jigsaw step is to use a disc sander with a course grit paper initially, grinding quickly and moving the windshield constantly (to avoid melting) along the desired shape. Once you get within 1/16" or so change out to a fine sandpaper to get exactly the shape you want.
Finish as described above.
It really is an easy job either way if you are handy at all!
Have fun!
#20
03-13-2009, 01:23 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
You got all the info you need above so I won't go into that. I did cut mine down & it came out like it was factory made. But I will tell you that after 2 years of changing & cutting windshields & getting buffeting that was pretty bad from lower shields I am totally happy now. I either ride without a shield which is most of the time but on long trips or colder temps I have a shield that I look through. I got used to looking through it fairly quickly & it completely stops the buffeting & is much more effective for what it's supposed to do. My 2 cents.