Had a friend trailer my chopper to the shop for some tuning issues and he tied down the bike alot different than I ever saw. He used a wheel chock that locks in the front tire and allows you to get off the bike and it stayed upright by itself.I had seen these before so that was no big surprise and I have to say it made the tie down a one man operation. What he did from there really had me concerned as it was his belief that to compress the forks was not the best thing to do. He placed a ratchet on both sides of the front wheel just above the fender mount and just pulled the strap both ways straight out away from the bike. He then went to the back at the swingarm and just pulled that on both sides straight out also. I expressed my concern that [I] did not feel real comfortable with this and he said just try to shake the bike and see what you think. UNBELIEVABLE....The bike felt like it was embedded in concrete and I could not even budge it a little bit. Got to where we were going...about 45 miles and the bike was still as solid as ever. I was always taught to compress the forks to stop the up and down motion and eliminate the straps loosening up, this method was definetly alot easier and solid than doing it the "old" way. He explained that in his mind you do more damage to the forks and seals by compressing them and keeping them under a load than if you just allow them to move a little naturally during trailering.He claims all you need to do with this method is stop the bike from moving sideways. He has traveled from Pa to Florida and Sturgis numerous times with 5- 6 bikes in his trailer this way so I certainly think his method has proven itself. Thought sharing this might help someone.

 

Glad ya learned somethin new.......
let me add 1 more thing,,,, silly wabbit,,, trailers are fer kids!!

 

I have only ever seen the 'compressed' version of trailering. As far as I know, you never really compress them fully, so there is always a little 'play' during transit (Even with the front wheel embeded in a wheel chock). This just limits the range of bounce during hwy travel.

Compressing the back end helps to limit the amount of 'migration' that will naturally happen when the bike bounces during transit. Having it either tethered off on either side or having some sort of wheel block on the back tire will also help it to stay put.

Keeping the transmission in neutral will also help to prevent excessive wear during transit.

 

Yea , yea I know but with about 1/2 " of salt on the roads I would rather trailer it than have it ate up by the salt this time of year.

 

actually,,,, all my years of haulin race bikes,,, and the fork compression issues,, I always
wondered why, we (racers) , never hand suspension tie downs..?
From the Top of our trailers,,, nothing would ever fall!~!!
Maybe, I should invent this new item,,, "Tie-Ups"

Just like the medicated moisturised Butt wipes,,, That was my idea ,,,, long time ago!!!

 

I agree but after seeing him tiedown from the bottom of the bike it blew me away how solid it was. Much more so than from when I tied down before the conventional way. I do think though , the front wheel chock had a lot to do with the stability of the tiedown.

 

So he hooked up toward top of the fork sliders and pulled straight out on then? Seems like it would load the forks in a way other than what they were designed for.

What brand was the wheel chock?

 

I use the small locking wheel chock that I purchased from Harbor Freight. I agree when the chock is used it becomes an instant one person operation.
I still use the same tie down locations in the front, but with less down force on the forks. The rear tie down locations are the rear floorboard mounting brackets.

The bike, at least to me, seems to be just as secure with chock and without all the excess down force on the forks.

Just my 2 cents

 

one thing that i have always done is to place a block of wood under the frame. then tighten down the straps, the forks compress just a little until the frame contacts the wood. with this, the forks will not over compress and blow seals, or over extend and cause the straps to loosen up. some folks say it isn't necessary, but i feel its cheap insurance,never had a problem with it.

 

I have a Wheeldock & they don't recommened compressing the forks. from their manual:

Strapping Instructions



(see page 5 for a full description of our custom built front safety strap.)

TIP:



NOTE: We use ratchet straps with built-in soft ties and locking hooks when transporting our bikes
to shows and highly recommend these over the cam-lock straps, as those tend to slip and
loosen. Because we leave the suspension room to travel, we recommend locking hooks as
insurance against a strap coming unhooked from the floor rings. You can also use tape around
the hooks or a bungee cord to always keep the hooks in tension.

occasion).

http://www.wheeldock.com/default_wheeldock.shtml