I'm a bit puzzled by inconsistent references in HD service manuals and part instruction sheets to Loctite application -- for example:

-- The instruction sheet packaged with a HD Softail Sport Luggage Rack calls for Loctite red on some fasteners; but,

-- The instruction sheet packaged with brake pads for my FLSTN has no reference to Loctite on any fasteners, front or rear. The service manual also doesn't call for any threadlockers for caliper bolts or pad pins.

However, there are many other specific directions in the manual to use Loctite in assemblies.

I'm just trying to understand the logic behind that, why a luggage rack would need threadlock more than a brake caliper(?) Especially when you consider how paranoid HD's lawyers obviously are in regards to the text of publications (how many times does the phrase "could result in death or serious injury" occur in the typical service or owner's manual?).

 

The luggage rack is subjected to more vibrations, so I can see why it needs to use locktite. I would use blue though. As far as the calipers, it is a much heavier thread and is going into aluminum, with that said anytime you use a lubricant like locktite, oil or never seeze it increases the torque when tightened, which could easily pull the threads in the aluminum. Also I think the heat factor in the calipers would negate the strength of the locktite

 

+1 on not using red Loctite on the luggage rack! Blue works great in most applications, just remember the surfaces have to be clean for the Loctite to work properly.

 

A luggage rack is supposed to be permanent, so you shouldn't need to remove the bolts once it's installed.
You or someone else will be removing the brake caliper every so often to service the brakes.

If this doesn't answer your question, then put some Blue Loctite on your caliper bolts, and then you'll figure it out for yourself.

 

here is a good rule of thumb: use blue if it has to be removed periodically, use red if it is seldom/ never removed.

 

Torque is sufficient on brake calipers plus the pins need to be able to move and flex. A brake caliper while fixed contains moving parts and should be serviced regularly. Hence no loctite speced. On automotive brake relines you actually lubricate the pads, bolts, pins and hub flange with silicone brake lubricant. I haven't done a caliper rebuild on a bike yet.

 

Thanks to all for the great answers. As for the application to caliper bolts, I didn't think about the heat factor -- makes sense!

 

Never use red on anything you may need to remove. A "rule of thumb" is on most industrial Loctite threadlocker containers. Red says"permanent and for 1" and larger fasteners, blue says removable. Loctite has a decent website for product info. I'm going to ask my Loctite rep if they could do a mini seminar on the web for basic threadlocking and gasketing. If this can be done, I'll post an announcement. I will see him tomorrow(12/11).

 

If you really want to rock and roll try green locktite All locktite comes loose with heat less heat for red more for green Locktite (red ) is recommended for all foot peg mounts especially Kuryakyn

 

Works for me and a great rule too.