As ranger said, you only need to fog a 2-stroke. For 4-strokes, pull plugs, add approx. 1 oz of engine oil to each cylinder, replace plugs & crank a few time with plugs wires off. This is really only necessary if you're going to store it for extended period time, like longer than 3 months, but won't hurt.

 

By using the search feature on the forum, here are some of the best suggestions I found.

0. Change the oils and filter.
1. Wash the bike and dry thoroughly
2. Detail the bike. Scrub all surfaces and seal with a good coat of wax or metal polish.
3. Put a dab of dielectric grease on all electrical connections
4. fill fuel tank FULL and add a good fuel stabilizer
5. run bike for a few minutes to ensure stabilized fuel gets through into fuel system
6. turn fuel petcock off and allow carbs to run dry
7. Air cleaner - seal the outside with plastic and tape to prevent "critters" from getting in and setting up shop.
8. Pull battery or prepare to place on a tender.
9. place bike in a secure dry location
10. place some scrap wood(plywood) under the tires to keep them off a concrete floor.
11. cover the bike with a breathable cover.
12. connect battery tender.

Tip: If covering the bike, a 60 watt light bulb placed on the ground under the bike will further prevent condensation if your storage area is not insulated or subject to wide temperature/humidity variations.

Tip: Fogging the bike, especially laced wheels, with WD40 works great to prevent rust & corrosion.



For more temperate areas, numbers 1, 4, 5, 9 and 12 are all that's necessary. There's always a relatively warm and dry day here and there throughout the winter when the opportunity to ride presents itself.



Best Suggestion Yet......

All you northern owners.... ship the bike to one of us here in the south, make sure the keys, registration, and insurance papers are with it, and we'll keep the bike safe, and warm, and well ridden over those long cold winter months...


.

 

I don't store mine since I can usually get out at least once a month in the winter with the heated gear. Between rides I just keep it covered and on the battery tender.

 

+1........& I store the bike on the M/C jack (wheels in the air)

 

All I've ever done with any of my bikes is fill the tank, add StaBil and plug in the battery tender. I've never found the need to change the oil before winter just to change it again in the spring. I'll change both of 'em come springtime and ride on.

 

BINGO.....Sometimes people want to make harder then it really is...

cHarly..
I will send you all 3 of my bikes as long as you pay me say 450.00 a month,keep up all maintanance,pay for any damage and no more then 500 miles per bike then have em back to me April 1st.....J/k..my bikes sleep very nicelly in my basement......Besides I like to start em once in a while....you know thro a little CCR or Lynard on,turn the fan on and let the mind go......hehehehehehe.....not.

 

Absolutely. My bikes are away for the winter, but jeez, it's not like hibernation. I'll probably have them out on some decent days throughout the winter, and even if not, it's only a couple months. Hell, I once left my Ninja in a mall parking garage for an entire winter, it fired right up come spring with nothing more than a flat rear tire

 

Unless your oil doesn't have high mileage on it, if you are only going to change it once, it's best to skip the spring change and do it in the fall IMO.

This post by Pococj is copied from the Oil section of this forum:
One reason for changing oil when a bike is stored is to prevent any acids formed by combustion by-products from eating on the engine internals. To counteract this oils have additives that neutralize the acids. As oil "ages" these additives are depleted 'cause they're doing their job. The only way to know for sure whether their is enough neutralizing additive left is to have a sample analyzed for TBN, or Total Base Number.

Having said that, since you are using Mobil 1, and only have 900 miles on it, I wouldn't worry about it. There's plenty of additive left to neutralize anything inside your engine. Let me rephrase this - If this was my bike, I'd keep the Mobil 1 in there. Before next season started I'd draw a sample and have a lab check it to determine whether I needed to change it before hitting the road for the summer. Even then, I'd bet it would be OK.

 

I would be very careful of the amount of oil you put into the cylinders. You can hydrolock the engine and cause big damage.
MikeM

 

Yeah, I've read tons of arguments in either direction. Ask 10 different riders and they'll all have a different response. I'm sure it's fine either way.