Looking to buy a trailer for trips to Tennessee (from Ohio) a couple times a year. Probably a 6 x 12 or so. Does anyone know how much of a savings in mpg you get from a v-nose versus a flat front??

 

I thought I wanted an enclosed trailer 5 years ago too, but opted for an open one made by Adventure Sports Products out of Colorado (http://www.adventuresportsproducts.c...1-null-error/0)
Best thing I ever did! You don't even know it's back there with 2 dressers on. Air suspension that lowers the trailer flat to the ground for true 1-man loading, not to mention the smooth ride that your bike gets. Fiberglass cowl on the front takes care of any rocks, etc. Check them out. Great mpg's with less wind resistance. Good Luck!

 

V-nose will increase mileage by 10% or so.

 

Your fuel mileage will vary with what you are using to pull it with....I know you're thinking duh! I have a Yukon and could really tell no difference in fuel economy between the two. The airflow off the top of the Yukon didn't really affect the trailer that much. Now a truck or car there is a noticeable difference and didn't really care for the V nose in strong crosswinds.

I ended up buying a slope nose trailer and pulls like a dream but I think the smallest they make with slope nose is 20 ft.

 

You will get 1-3 MPG better with the V nose (as I am told) depending on the tow vehicle. I tow with a full size van or 24' RV and took the savings on the flat nose because the fuel savings would have been insignificant. I picked up a nice used flat nose for $1600. Now I just need to get the chucks installed and put in the tie downs. Went on a couple trips of less then 1,000 miles and just haven't wanted to use it yet. We were going to trailer out to CO and ride the 2000 mile western loop but the other parties wife broke her sternum in a car accident so I haven't gotten to use it yet. If I used a pickup to tow with I would have gone with the V nose. A full size vane is a nice roomy tow vehicle and with 350 mile gas stops you can sleep while someone else drives.

 

I've got a 5x10 flatbed utility trailer. I had it semi-custom built at a local trailer shop. By semi-custom, I mean that shop had basic frame that customer specs deck, axle and tongue options. My main use was to load a smal car on it, so I had them build it with diamond plate deck (it was replacing a trailer with a 7/8" plywood deck) with tie down pockets in the floor for wheel baskets - lets the car float on its own suspension, instead of compressing the susp. down by tying it down by the frame of the car. Granted, tying down a bike by the wheels probably isn't an option.

The benefit of having an utility trailer is the stake pockets I had them put on it. Pop And I built wooden sides for it, so I can get a load of gravel, much, move furniture, etc.

Just thought I'd throw that idea out for you.

I also tow with a f/s van, so mileage is insignificant.

 

From the NoseCone company website.

"Don't be fooled by trailer shapes that have the appearance of being aerodynamic. Aerodynamic shaping is not intuitive, it requires rigorous wind tunnel testing to be validated".

http://www.nosecone.com/aepull.htm

V-front trailers were originally designed for pull through applications (snowmobiles and atv's). If you want the best in aerodynamics, get a Wells Cargo trailer with a true NoseCone.

 

Well,

Pulled an 8X18 flat front trailer (Pace) for many miles with dirtbilkes and camping gear and the trailer guy told me the nose cone (rounded add-on one) wasn't worth the cost...I find that hard to believe because anything that betters the aero is an improvement, but I never added one to try it before I sold the trailer....

I think the v-nose has to be better than a flat front even without wind tunnel testing, just from the design and if I get another enclosed trailer it will have a v-nose (plus there is additional cargo room).......

What I think makes the most difference on an enclosed trailer is the differential in the height between the trailer and towing vehicle...my trailer had a large flat frontal surface area that hung below the truck and caught all the wind going under the truck instead of letting it pass under the trailer because the trailer was lower to the ground....I would turn the springs over if possible or add spacers to try to even the back of the truck and underneath of the trailer even if it meant longer ramps........

If you look at all the large 5th wheels and similar RV's going down the road today, you can see they all sit up high to let the airflow go under even if they are not toyboxes that need rough ground clearance......

 

Large fifth wheels have alot of groung clearance for negotiating driveways. Unlike tractor trailer rigs which have wheel sets in the back, recreation fifth wheels have their wheel sets more centered, leaving a long rear overhang. It's not about off roading, it's about driveways, gas stations and residential roads.

 

By way of explanation. I was the Wells Cargo dealer in North Florida for a number of years. I no longer sell or represent Wells Cargo. Nor do I represent the NoseCone company. That said, there is a reason why so many semi trailers have NoseCone brand nosecones. They work.

I have towed alot of trailers, all shapes and sizes. If you don't plan on towing your trailer much or at highway speeds for long distances, then a nose cone is something you don't need. I own a 8' x 20' cargo trailer that does not have a nose cone because I don't find it necessary for it's application. However, my 7' x 14' motorcycle trailer has a nosecone.

If you need more room, buy a longer trailer (think about it, do you have any v-shaped rooms in your house).
If aerodynamics is important buy a trailer with a proven effective nosecone.
If you have a snowmobile, buy a v-front trailer.