Belt tensioning tool?
#11
They only cost a few bucks - just buy one!
It is spring loaded, so when you rest it against the belt and press on the end, you move the belt and also compress the spring. The belt guard has marks on it and the tool has a mark on it so you can see how far the belt has moved when the tool is properly compressed. I have had mine since 1990 and it is a breeze to use, with the bike on the jiffy stand. I don't bother sitting on the bike, just ensure the belt is at the 'slack' end of its range.
It is spring loaded, so when you rest it against the belt and press on the end, you move the belt and also compress the spring. The belt guard has marks on it and the tool has a mark on it so you can see how far the belt has moved when the tool is properly compressed. I have had mine since 1990 and it is a breeze to use, with the bike on the jiffy stand. I don't bother sitting on the bike, just ensure the belt is at the 'slack' end of its range.
#12
As far as sitting on the bike to do the adjustment. I fully understand the reason for it, with the swing arm slightly raised from the weight of rider/passenger the belt tension will be tighter. The only thing though......I believe the MOCO has that already figured into the procedure as the manual describes it. I am sure the people at HD who write these service manuals know about setting the belt tension with a rider on the bike to get a more accurate setting, but they say nothing about it IIRC.
After you do it enough times, you dont NEED to use the tool anymore. You can get it 99% correct by just feel.
I think the much more critical thing is to get the alignment of the rear wheel set right. For this I am totally ****. I get out a tape measure, and make many measurements....using both the tape and a small ruler. Or I use one of these from Motion-Pro. They are cheep, and work perfectly.
Here it is in the J&P cat.
#13
Biz,
Thanks for that reply. Yours is a much better explanation than what I've seen in the manual. Realistically, can this all be done with the bike on the ground or is is better with the real wheel jacked up or on a stand? I guess I'm thinking more about the alignment and adjustment, because I'm thinking that at 10,000 miles (5K since the last service), the belt is likely to need to be tightened.
Thanks for that reply. Yours is a much better explanation than what I've seen in the manual. Realistically, can this all be done with the bike on the ground or is is better with the real wheel jacked up or on a stand? I guess I'm thinking more about the alignment and adjustment, because I'm thinking that at 10,000 miles (5K since the last service), the belt is likely to need to be tightened.
#14
Biz,
Thanks for that reply. Yours is a much better explanation than what I've seen in the manual. Realistically, can this all be done with the bike on the ground or is is better with the real wheel jacked up or on a stand? I guess I'm thinking more about the alignment and adjustment, because I'm thinking that at 10,000 miles (5K since the last service), the belt is likely to need to be tightened.
Thanks for that reply. Yours is a much better explanation than what I've seen in the manual. Realistically, can this all be done with the bike on the ground or is is better with the real wheel jacked up or on a stand? I guess I'm thinking more about the alignment and adjustment, because I'm thinking that at 10,000 miles (5K since the last service), the belt is likely to need to be tightened.
So...yes you can do it with the bike on the ground, or on a jack with the rear wheel off the ground. Just if you do it while on the side stand, do like I said and try to keep the bike as upright as possible. Follow the directions in the service manual step by step......loosening the rear axle only enough to make it easy for the belt adjustment bolts to turn. (I dont know what year/model bike you have), but on my 2008 Street Glide the rear belt adjustment has a "eccentric" type adjuster, and that makes it very easy to get the alignment of the rear wheel perfect. You can turn the one side of the adjuster and both sides will turn because the axle is keyed or notched so the both turn at the same time and amount. If you have the old style bolt type adjusters, just do the left side first, and then go to the right side. Turn the bolt the same amount of turns on both sides, and then measure it several times or use the tool I pictured to get the alignment perfect.
Make 100% sure you use a torque wrench on the axle nut. IIRC it should be no tighter than about 65ft/lbs. or you could do damage to the wheel bearings.
Anyhow......just make sure you use the HD Factory Service Manual, and not one of those Clymer or Haynes el cheapo ones, and you will do just fine. If your stuck....or not sure about something, just ask here on the forum....or PM me and I will help you through.
#17
LOL..........good idea....I think I'll try that today......makes sense to check it under real world conditions..........THX in advance....
#18
I think he might be asking how the tool touches the belt. The tool has a wide U shaped part that fits against the belt so the upright parts of the U fit into the slots that run crosswise on the belt.
#19
I think the service manual says to measure with no on sitting on the bike. Besides, what good would that do with the bike on a jack with the wheel in the air? Wouldn't make any difference.
#20
I ain't fat, but can't do that either!