Engine Braking
#21
Where it might have come from is from the drag strip. At the end of the 1/4 mile, racers shift into neutral to save wear and tear on the valve train due to the possibility of bending a push rod. Harley is still using push rods to open valves while other mfgrs are using chains to move the cams to open the valves. Only thing I can think of.
Yes, I due use engine braking to slow instead of the brakes, never want to overheat your "backup system" to stop you.
Yes, I due use engine braking to slow instead of the brakes, never want to overheat your "backup system" to stop you.
#22
MSF Instructors here teach not to use engine braking simply because you should show your brake lights as soon as possible for anyone following you. They didn't appreciate my comment that I like to hear the pipes during engine braking. :-(
#23
I use everything, engine ,clutch, brakes to maintain control at all speeds both accelerating and decelerating. Who cares if you wear out the friction parts as that's what they are for.
#24
Anyone attempting to ride steep twisties using just their brakes and no compression (engine) braking is asking for serious trouble. The concern about wearing out clutches is puzzling.
#25
I think we also missed that down shifting/engine braking also leaves you in a favorable position if you need to do any evasive/defensive driving. Nothing like needing a little acceleration and not having it because you are in too high of a gear.
#27
not just defensive though but just keeping up with traffic flow, I see noobs lugging and having to downshift in the middle of traffic jams or before they can pass all the time
seconds can count
#28
Remember, you're supposed to get 70 per cent of your braking from your front tire due to weight transfer and traction.
If you don't like buying brake pads you sure won't like buying rear tires after you skid them off from engine braking. You won't notice that you're damaging them while you do it. You'll just find that you don't get your 12,000 miles out of them and maybe wonder why.
While I agree on constant shifting to stay in the proper gear for your speed to be ready to go, you have little control over whether your rear tire will slide on you with engine braking. You can far more easily feather your brakes.
I live in the mountains and I never have brake fade. I suppose there's a little engine braking simply because I'm in the proper gear, but If I really need to suddenly slow, I pull the clutch and use the brakes, again 70 per cent front.
Please use your front brake.
If you don't like buying brake pads you sure won't like buying rear tires after you skid them off from engine braking. You won't notice that you're damaging them while you do it. You'll just find that you don't get your 12,000 miles out of them and maybe wonder why.
While I agree on constant shifting to stay in the proper gear for your speed to be ready to go, you have little control over whether your rear tire will slide on you with engine braking. You can far more easily feather your brakes.
I live in the mountains and I never have brake fade. I suppose there's a little engine braking simply because I'm in the proper gear, but If I really need to suddenly slow, I pull the clutch and use the brakes, again 70 per cent front.
Please use your front brake.
#29
Brakes are meant to be used, bikes are meant to be ridden. Engine braking is fine if you do it within reason. If you're worried, get a slipper clutch.
Don't V-Rods have slipper clutches?
Don't V-Rods have slipper clutches?
#30
That latter type of substituting the clutch and gears for brakes is what will slide your tire. You have little traction on that rear tire. It could also dump you because you have little control over just how much the tire will grab.
You aren't transferring weight to the front tire with the front brake as you're suppose to.
I do have a friend who argues this with me and he can't get more than 5,000 miles out of a rear tire. Wonder why? I get 12 - 15k miles on my rears. I also believe I have a whole lot more control. $.02.