How do you ride the twisties in the mountains?
#1
08-06-2008, 05:31 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South of Raleigh, and west of the coast, NC.
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How do you ride the twisties in the mountains?
Just got back from West Virginia (Beautiful scenery and pretty good roads) excellent twisties up and down the mountains. You all that live in the mountains get to ride these roads all the time just curious how you use your brakes and transmission gearing. I tried to use my transmission as somewhat of a brake to decel down the mountain trying not to heat the brakes to much. How do you ride the twisties? This kind of riding really puts the motorcycle to the test. I was riding two-up for 1,200 miles this past weekend. '07 EGC performed flawlessly. Thoroughly enjoyed the trip.
#2
08-06-2008, 05:45 PM
Mountain canyons and valleys will school ya some, won't they? They sure do me each time I head out.
A big part of speed control is learning the right line in the twisties. Staying in your lane of course, start on the outside of the curve, intitiate turn, head on a flatter trajectory toward the apex, then follow through back to the outside of the turn exit. Brake before turn initiation, not during the turn, and keep positive throttle engagement as you go through the turn, even accelerating upon exit, if appropriate. Compound turns require a different line, somewhat splitting the difference. Throttle steer to adjust line and speed.
Speed control is best done by picking the right gear and enjoying the torque of our v-twins, or do some crazy shifting like the squids. Save braking for emergencies or when downshifting/engine braking isn't enough. Never go as fast as you think you can in any given conditions. Never know when that doe will jump out. Save your maximum efforts for track days.
A big part of speed control is learning the right line in the twisties. Staying in your lane of course, start on the outside of the curve, intitiate turn, head on a flatter trajectory toward the apex, then follow through back to the outside of the turn exit. Brake before turn initiation, not during the turn, and keep positive throttle engagement as you go through the turn, even accelerating upon exit, if appropriate. Compound turns require a different line, somewhat splitting the difference. Throttle steer to adjust line and speed.
Speed control is best done by picking the right gear and enjoying the torque of our v-twins, or do some crazy shifting like the squids. Save braking for emergencies or when downshifting/engine braking isn't enough. Never go as fast as you think you can in any given conditions. Never know when that doe will jump out. Save your maximum efforts for track days.
#3
08-06-2008, 05:52 PM
Mountain canyons and valleys will school ya some, won't they? They sure do me each time I head out.
A big part of speed control is learning the right line in the twisties. Staying in your lane of course, start on the outside of the curve, intitiate turn, head on a flatter trajectory toward the apex, then follow through back to the outside of the turn exit. Brake before turn initiation, not during the turn, and keep positive throttle engagement as you go through the turn, even accelerating upon exit, if appropriate. Compound turns require a different line, somewhat splitting the difference. Throttle steer to adjust line and speed.
Speed control is best done by picking the right gear and enjoying the torque of our v-twins, or do some crazy shifting like the squids. Save braking for emergencies or when downshifting/engine braking isn't enough. Never go as fast as you think you can in any given conditions. Never know when that doe will jump out. Save your maximum efforts for track days.
A big part of speed control is learning the right line in the twisties. Staying in your lane of course, start on the outside of the curve, intitiate turn, head on a flatter trajectory toward the apex, then follow through back to the outside of the turn exit. Brake before turn initiation, not during the turn, and keep positive throttle engagement as you go through the turn, even accelerating upon exit, if appropriate. Compound turns require a different line, somewhat splitting the difference. Throttle steer to adjust line and speed.
Speed control is best done by picking the right gear and enjoying the torque of our v-twins, or do some crazy shifting like the squids. Save braking for emergencies or when downshifting/engine braking isn't enough. Never go as fast as you think you can in any given conditions. Never know when that doe will jump out. Save your maximum efforts for track days.
mjh
#5
08-06-2008, 06:05 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South of Raleigh, and west of the coast, NC.
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Yeah, saw several deer while riding try to keep alert for them. I was concerned because I have heard that on the newer '96ci models it is not good to use engine for braking. I had always been taught to ride like that saving the brakes for significant slowing or emergency braking.
#6
08-06-2008, 07:04 PM
Yeah, saw several deer while riding try to keep alert for them. I was concerned because I have heard that on the newer '96ci models it is not good to use engine for braking. I had always been taught to ride like that saving the brakes for significant slowing or emergency braking.
#7
08-06-2008, 09:33 PM
I scrape the pegs and the heels of my boots on a regular basis on the twisties. My Dad lives in the mountains and I do not live far from them either so I get plenty of opportunities to ride them. My favorite riding in my book. Especially uphill pullin. Downhill I engine brake as well.
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#8
08-06-2008, 09:50 PM
Throttle steer.
I just returned from a trip through the Rockies. For a prairie boy, there was some awesome riding to be done.
I'm no novice to riding, but throwing a fully loaded touring bike through the twisties took some technique.
faber has a great description of how to prepare for and execute a sweeping curve.
I found that as I was riding the apex of the curve, I needed to make minor adjustments to keep from drifting too far to the right or left. I could adjust my lean angle to accomplish this, but doing so introduced a degree of instability to the turn that was undesirable and not as elegant or safe as making throttle adjustments to correct line. If I was drifting too close to the centre line, additional throttle caused the bike to stand up some and move me closer to the centre of my lane. Conversely, if I had too much speed, I would be moving toward the outside of my lane. Reduction in throttle brought me back in to the line that I wanted. The actual throttle movement was very minor - increases or decreases by one or two mph would have the desired affect. This was much easier than using body position or counter steering to adjust lane position.
Biggest lessons learned - don't enter a curve faster than your comfort level allows. When a sign posted before the curve has a speed advisory for the curve - go that speed. Look through the curve and not at the road. If you can't see around the corner, be prepared to brake for any hazard that may appear. Watch for deer. Have an escape plan for your situation that includes what to do if the vehicle behind you is traveling too closely.
I used transmission braking on long declines and speed adjustments before curves. Kept my eye on the tach and didn't let it exceed about 3100 RPM on my TC88 - seemed to work very well.
I just returned from a trip through the Rockies. For a prairie boy, there was some awesome riding to be done.
I'm no novice to riding, but throwing a fully loaded touring bike through the twisties took some technique.
faber has a great description of how to prepare for and execute a sweeping curve.
I found that as I was riding the apex of the curve, I needed to make minor adjustments to keep from drifting too far to the right or left. I could adjust my lean angle to accomplish this, but doing so introduced a degree of instability to the turn that was undesirable and not as elegant or safe as making throttle adjustments to correct line. If I was drifting too close to the centre line, additional throttle caused the bike to stand up some and move me closer to the centre of my lane. Conversely, if I had too much speed, I would be moving toward the outside of my lane. Reduction in throttle brought me back in to the line that I wanted. The actual throttle movement was very minor - increases or decreases by one or two mph would have the desired affect. This was much easier than using body position or counter steering to adjust lane position.
Biggest lessons learned - don't enter a curve faster than your comfort level allows. When a sign posted before the curve has a speed advisory for the curve - go that speed. Look through the curve and not at the road. If you can't see around the corner, be prepared to brake for any hazard that may appear. Watch for deer. Have an escape plan for your situation that includes what to do if the vehicle behind you is traveling too closely.
I used transmission braking on long declines and speed adjustments before curves. Kept my eye on the tach and didn't let it exceed about 3100 RPM on my TC88 - seemed to work very well.
#9
08-06-2008, 09:55 PM
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I live near several mountain ranges here in California. I ride the twisties as fast as I can and use my brakes. I, at times, scrap my floorboards, but that just makes it more exciting. I only downshift when I have to.
#10
08-06-2008, 10:08 PM
Elite HDF Member
I love riding in the mountains. Scrape my floorboards quite often. Use both brakes and engine braking. More tire area touching the road when bike is leaned over than when bike is straight up.