How do you ride the twisties in the mountains?
#11
I think the eyes are critical. I just did some twisties last week in N GA and W NC and there is no doubt that getting your eyes to focus through the curve and not on the road 30 feet in front of you is critical. Takes a little trust though.... faith even!
#12
I knew there was something else. I have found those posted speed advisory signs work like this...
45 mph - go through about as fast as you want
35 mph - comfortable anywhere from 40 -55
25 mph - fine anywhere from 30 to 45
15 mph - hold on to your freakin hat it is basically a U-turn!
45 mph - go through about as fast as you want
35 mph - comfortable anywhere from 40 -55
25 mph - fine anywhere from 30 to 45
15 mph - hold on to your freakin hat it is basically a U-turn!
#13
Just got back from West Virginia (Beautiful scenery and pretty good roads) excellent twisties up and down the mountains. You all that live in the mountains get to ride these roads all the time just curious how you use your brakes and transmission gearing. I tried to use my transmission as somewhat of a brake to decel down the mountain trying not to heat the brakes to much. How do you ride the twisties? This kind of riding really puts the motorcycle to the test. I was riding two-up for 1,200 miles this past weekend. '07 EGC performed flawlessly. Thoroughly enjoyed the trip.
As a general rule I use engine braking for most corners with the front brake on occasion. Make sure you're in a low enough gear. Nothing worse than pogoing on and off the throttle (or worse the brake) while leaned over in a corner! A rule of thumb is be in a gear 1/10 the posted corner speed. In other words if it's a 30 MPH posted corner, be in third gear. Your speed may actually be 40-50MPH. I have my engine braking done before the corner then give just a little throttle as I enter. This allows the suspension to decompress giving as much precious cornering clearance back as the bike has. As soon as I see the apex, I roll on the throttle.
#14
Qwest gave a good description of throttle steering. The trick is not to coast in turns/twisties. By keeping on the throttle, you will hold your line and keep positive traction. At the apex, you can drop a little throttle to tighten your turning radius without changing your steering input (and risking your stability). Add some throttle to increase your turning radius.
The goal is to adjust your line for conditions, turn radius, and your speed. Throttle steering is a racing tactic, and it works in cars, too. In mountains, you want to brake as little as possible. Work your throttle and practice nailing your line. This will work for you going up and down. Watch a good sportbike rider in the twisties. They will be shifting constantly to stay in the same part of the powerband so that their throttle steering is more effective. Outside of the turn, they will let off the throttle and let the engine braking take over.
You can practice this first in your car. Get on a road where you can go highway speed. When you hit a constant radius turn, turn your wheel, hold that, then adjust your gas pedal slightly and observe the effects. This is what NASCAR/IRL drivers do in high speed turns where braking and drastic steering inputs could be dangerous.
And then come on out to Montana. We've got a road or two that will give you chance to practice.
Cheers
The goal is to adjust your line for conditions, turn radius, and your speed. Throttle steering is a racing tactic, and it works in cars, too. In mountains, you want to brake as little as possible. Work your throttle and practice nailing your line. This will work for you going up and down. Watch a good sportbike rider in the twisties. They will be shifting constantly to stay in the same part of the powerband so that their throttle steering is more effective. Outside of the turn, they will let off the throttle and let the engine braking take over.
You can practice this first in your car. Get on a road where you can go highway speed. When you hit a constant radius turn, turn your wheel, hold that, then adjust your gas pedal slightly and observe the effects. This is what NASCAR/IRL drivers do in high speed turns where braking and drastic steering inputs could be dangerous.
And then come on out to Montana. We've got a road or two that will give you chance to practice.
Cheers
Last edited by faber; 08-07-2008 at 12:10 AM.
#15
Don't forget that when the bike leans onto the side of the tires, the effective diameter of the tires is smaller and they must spin faster just to maintain speed. That's the main reason for braking before the turn and then rolling on the throttle through the turn. If you don't add power, the tires try to scrub off speed and you can lose control.
Again, adding power just speeds up the tires to maintain the speed you had. Also, the forces of turning will scrub off speed so additional power is needed to counter that. Adding power is needed just to maintain the speed you entered the turn at, not to add speed.
A failure to brake before and then accelerate through can lead to loss of stability.
Again, adding power just speeds up the tires to maintain the speed you had. Also, the forces of turning will scrub off speed so additional power is needed to counter that. Adding power is needed just to maintain the speed you entered the turn at, not to add speed.
A failure to brake before and then accelerate through can lead to loss of stability.
#16
Don't forget that when the bike leans onto the side of the tires, the effective diameter of the tires is smaller and they must spin faster just to maintain speed. That's the main reason for braking before the turn and then rolling on the throttle through the turn. If you don't add power, the tires try to scrub off speed and you can lose control.
Again, adding power just speeds up the tires to maintain the speed you had. Also, the forces of turning will scrub off speed so additional power is needed to counter that. Adding power is needed just to maintain the speed you entered the turn at, not to add speed.
A failure to brake before and then accelerate through can lead to loss of stability.
Again, adding power just speeds up the tires to maintain the speed you had. Also, the forces of turning will scrub off speed so additional power is needed to counter that. Adding power is needed just to maintain the speed you entered the turn at, not to add speed.
A failure to brake before and then accelerate through can lead to loss of stability.
#17
OK, look at this bike on the sides of its tires. The sides of the tires have a smaller diameter than if the bike is upright. The tires must therefore spin faster to maintain speed. I'll see if I can post the pic. Click on pic to enlarge.
Last edited by JBaker421; 08-07-2008 at 01:52 AM. Reason: add pic
#19
Stayed At Hawks Nest State park. Rode rte 60-rte 16-rte 39 to Summersville, good little ride. Took rte 19 to 79 up to exit 99 then rte 33 over to 219 thru Monogahela National park and past Snowshoe. Then took rte 39/55at Millpoint back towards Summersville. Very good riding. And yes I was scraping my footboards on some of the turns.
#20
JBaker is right, the smaller effective wheel diameter is a factor. So is the increased friction/rolling resistance from the increased tire patch. Also the loss of momentum that occurs any time you change direction, countering centrifugal force, etc. Always safer to stay on the throttle during a turn, for a variety of reasons. Brake between them.
....
On another note, I was out for my "dawn patrol" ride this morning--beautiful morning under the Big Sky!--and I was not surprised to see a lot of bikers on the roads, even that early. Since Bozeman is off I-90 and on the way to Yellowstone, this time of year we get a lot out-of-state guys riding through (riding to/from Sturgis, I guess). When I was on 191 in Gallatin Canyon, I saw way too many guys taking the twisties every way but the right way. Some came too close to the guard rail (where there was one), some got off line and into the sand in the shoulder and panic-braked, some braked during a turn and suddenly found themselves in the other lane, causing cars to swerve dangerously. There ain't a lot of room for that kind of thing in a canyon. I did see one bagger on its side in the shoulder. Don't know where the rider was. I assume he got a ride into town (the HP car three cars ahead didn't stop, so I assume it was called in already). Man, if I had a nickel for every dumb greenhorn move I saw, I could have paid for breakfast.
That and this thread just reminded me that we should all be aware of our limits and the limits of the road.
Now if I find myself moving to a big city (God forbid!) I'll be the first to ask for help 'cuz I'd be clueless in those conditions.
....
On another note, I was out for my "dawn patrol" ride this morning--beautiful morning under the Big Sky!--and I was not surprised to see a lot of bikers on the roads, even that early. Since Bozeman is off I-90 and on the way to Yellowstone, this time of year we get a lot out-of-state guys riding through (riding to/from Sturgis, I guess). When I was on 191 in Gallatin Canyon, I saw way too many guys taking the twisties every way but the right way. Some came too close to the guard rail (where there was one), some got off line and into the sand in the shoulder and panic-braked, some braked during a turn and suddenly found themselves in the other lane, causing cars to swerve dangerously. There ain't a lot of room for that kind of thing in a canyon. I did see one bagger on its side in the shoulder. Don't know where the rider was. I assume he got a ride into town (the HP car three cars ahead didn't stop, so I assume it was called in already). Man, if I had a nickel for every dumb greenhorn move I saw, I could have paid for breakfast.
That and this thread just reminded me that we should all be aware of our limits and the limits of the road.
Now if I find myself moving to a big city (God forbid!) I'll be the first to ask for help 'cuz I'd be clueless in those conditions.