screaming eagle triple platinum spark plugs part #
32997-01


Fits '99-later Twin Cam-equipped models. Slightly colder heat range for high performance engines with raised compression.

 

I aint 100% sure but IIRC alum starts melting at about 450*F.....thats what I would be thinking about. The fact remains though the newer models do have engine temp sensors (not oil temp) and have several points that when reached the ECU will interceed via timing, fuel, or even as far as killing the ignition to the rear cyl if the temps get too high.

All in all I think these engines can take it.....its easy enough to throw a colder plug in to reduce combustion chamber temps a bit.....but I think the ECU can handle most all normal stuff we could get into. Its the oil I would worry about though.....if your bike is running real hot, and your not using fully synthetic oil....you should be changing it a bit often.

 

Remember that, especially on an air cooled engine, engine temp is not necessarily OIL temp.
Again, an air cooled engine needs AIR to cool, so running it stationary in a garage is the best way to overheat it. Such a run will yeld results that are very, very different from the readings you'd get by making the measurements while riding.
This said, a short time of idling shouldn't get the engine so hot that the engine light goes on, especially on mild temps as 70 degrees.
If you did any modification to the engine or engine management (ECU map) make also sure you are not running too lean. Running lean may seriously overheat and damage the engine.

 

I don't know about new bikes but I do know that 946 seconds of idleing on any flat, knuckle or pan I've had woulda killed it quick. Avoid that stuff with any motor. Are you breaking in a "fresh" motor at an idle?

Oil AND air cool an air cooled motor. If your dino oil temp went to 300*, change it, its junk.

 

The numbering system on HD/SE plugs are diffucult for me to understand. I have understood NGK's heat ranges for 30 years:

5 - Evo's use 'em, hot as the sun, Evo's need them to maintain a "hot enough" combustion chamber
6 - Hot as hell, rarely used 'em racing dirt bikes
7 - Normal/hot, TC's use them and they border on being too hot for stock motor
8 - Normal/cool, probably the most used heat range of NGK plugs on motorcycles over 500cc in the world
9 - Cold plug, if you'bike can run this and burn off carbon, use a "9"
10 - North pole cold

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml

 

For what I know, oil partakes in engine cooling only in the "fathead" engine.
Anyway, yes, any oil temp above, say 260 degrees means the oil is done.

 

ty for the input, the motor is broken in and i was replicating the issue in my garage with the computer logging the data.

i am not running an oil temp gauge so i am unsure about that temp but i do know that the engine light comes on when the heads reach a certain temp as did happen. i also noticed the temp never went over 336f when i check the history of the cylinder head temps in the ecm.

the plugs are slightly white etc so i do know the bike is running lean, to what degree i don't know at this time but we will make some afr adjustments at the lower rev ranges and see what happens.

 

I start my race tuned stage 1 88 up on acool morning and watch the oil temp as it idles. Itreaches about 70 and won't climb past that unless I go ahead and ride. Don't have an oil cooler. Running, my oil never gets over 210 even on a hot summer day in traffic.Notas much power as a 96 or a 103 for sure, but am wondering if it's worth pushing the envelope so much.

GuessI will have to waitto see if those bigger engines hold up. Good luck

 

Aluminum melts at 1220.6 f. not 450.
Ron

 

has anyone else measured the temp on their heads after the bike gets going? i am curious as to what the typical temp range is