If you changed the fluids before you stored it, you do not need to change them when you pull it out. Basically, all you need to do is air up the tires, maybe charge the battery, then start it up and ride.

 

"Think I might try a K&N air filter, but they cost like 90-100 bucks so Im not sure"

If you go to a high-flow filter your air/fuel mix will be affected (obviously).
There are many threads on this forum discussing this, suggest you read a few before you lean out your motor.

 

Sounds exspensive,is this a dealer price?Ipaid $42+tax for mine,HD0800 i think.Could be comparing apples to oranges.

 

Changed the oil every month , the other fluids every two and plugs every three??? Geez if you have nothin better to do with your $$$$, I would be happy to take some off your hands!!!! No insult intended, but I would call excessive changes overkill------Unless you have absolutely nothing better to do. Just ride it, fire it up in spring and heat up the oil and burn off any water---change oil and run-it!!!

 

Don't know if I'd consider two months storage. For those guys who change their oil after their last ride of the season what do you do if your scheduled oil change is only 500 or a 1000 miles before that, change it again?.Seems like overkill to me. I follow the normal scheduleregardless of where that falls in theriding season.

 

RIDE IT!!!!!!!!
That's what I do, and ours are stored from Nov til April. But then, they were not ridden and put away wet, so to speak.The key is in the condition it went INTO storage in. There are a ton of bike websites that will give a VERY detailed list of what to do for long term storage. A little time in Nov will SAVE tons of headache come April. I even pull the boots up on the carb accelerator pump, and put Neatsfoot oil in there to prevent the leather from drying out. But, I am **** retentive. Mine are also stored "up" off the floor to keep weight off tires and bearings. Batt goes into the basement, on wood. Carbs are dry, gas tanks FULL to brim with Seafoam added to stabilize. (Prevents the "dreaded" condensation issue) Just a couple of the "xtra" things I do in conjunction with the "normal". I also fog the cylinders, and the bikes are kicked over at least once a month in the grudge, and refogged. I even used to put Saran wrap between the point's contacts. Been doing this for over 20 yrs., and we just RIDE come April. Learned a lot of this the "hard" way. APRIL's COMING, someday. [:'(]

 

The Stabil in gas tank will burnOK.

Check tire pressure,check fluid levels, and check battery if it wasn't on a tender.

Then just turn the key, let it warm up a bit, and ride it!!!

 

Good answer. I've always donethe sameand have never had a problem. Only difference is I use a Battery Tender during winter storage, so there's no need to charge the battery in the spring.

 

K&N filters love them. If it cost over 65 and thats high you got ripped off. Make sure you check to ensure you dont get one that increases your air flow if you havent modified your bike. This is a way larger topic but any increase in air flow and out flow you will need things done to a EFI system or even a carb.

You change your oil very often. I would slow down a bit. Syn products say every 5K or year. Changing before storage perfect. Some guys change Syn products like amsoil or mobil1 every 2500 miles. Not a bad idea but not a must.

Find a good mechanic that isnt scared to share info with you and shares FACTS. Those types of guys are priceless.

 

Ride the SH*T out of it!