Is there anyway some of this wobble might be coming from the kind of tires yer running ?

 

Stock Dunlops with a little over 5k miles on em.

 

No death grip here .. honest. I'm ususally riding with my arms bent and only using my fingers to hold on to the bars. No palm. Helps keep 'em from goin numb on the long hauls.

Actually, I've tried a lot of different techniques for cornering, and the "stiff arm" on the bars seems to be the best so far.

One thing i've noticed since going with higher bars is not as much counter steer when cornering is needed. Or at least it doesn't feel like it. I rode with drag bars before, and at high speeds you really notice the fact that your pushing/pulling on the bars when cornering hard.

With the apes, it's more body lean than anything.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong here.

 

The reason I'm asking, I ride pretty hard into curves. I had stock Dunlops on my bike. When I hammed it and let offgoing into curves the bike seemed like it walked some into curves. It seemed at times to be line I was on the edge of my rim walking across the road.
When I got onto a uneven road and changed lanes my bike was funning about changing lanes. When it had bad paved places in the road it seemed to wobble around in them. Look at the bottom of the Dunlop tires on Back, they seem to have a flat spot in the center.

I left Dunlops and went to Metzler 880 series tires.
I had a MH 90 on the front and went to a 80 series tire.
On back I had a 160/70 17" Dunlop tire and I went to a 170/60 17" metzler. The tire is more rounded now and don't wobble or walk on the road as much or find places that are not paved real even.. My wife riding on the back can notise the differenece.
I like the Metzler 880 series tires better, been to over 120 on the speedo and layed way down in the curves and they held good.Oh yea I think it says on papers when you git the tires to ride them 300 miles before you test them to allow them to break in.

 

IMO & if I understand your post correctly your bars are moving back cause they're "rolling"in the riser clamp. seems the clampneeds to be tightened down, or as others posted a set screw/bolt as a last resort. BUT definetly change the riser bushings anyway!

 

wheels and tires are balanced? if I ever develop any shake I'd check tires and wheels first and forget about anything I just changed until I ruled out a drive train issue. then I'd go back to the modification and double check the work done.
Have you tried putting your stock bars back on and making sure they too don't have this issue? maybe you just got used to the feel and then the new bars made you think it was a new problem?
I'm just thinking out loud. I'm interested in what the problem ends up being.

 

I dont think your doing anything wrong, I am always surprised when I get back on my sportster (drag bars) how much i have to muscle the bike, apes just give you so much more leverage.

 

first I would get rid of the dyna or at least see if the rear spring is adjustable is so try one notch up or down what you discribe is quite common on bikes with rear outboard shocks (dyna) also tire pressure but usually only straight ahead..

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sorry Grumps your first would be my LAST! are you hinting about rake/trail issues? why the hate on the dyna's?

 

Not enough fiber in your diet gramps?