Okay I recently acquired a low mileage 2000 super glide. I had intended to do a gear drive conversion kit on it, but I'm unsure of what cam to go with. I mostly ride solo
so riding with my girl isn't a huge deciding factor on the cam. I was trying to decide between the S&S 509 or 510 kit. Which one did you guys go with? I'm not going to be upgrading the heads at all and I know max lift on an 88 twin cam with stock equipment is 515. I also saw on JP cycles there is a 510G, a 510C, a 509G, and 509C. What are the differences there? Like always thanks for any info guys.

 

When I went gear drive cams, I got the S&S 510G cam set up on my 88 ci. Fatboy. The only problem I had with that cam set up was the torque came on later in the torque curve. I ended up changing the cams to the Andrews 26G because they provided more power off the line, and I pumped up the motor to 95 ci with headwork. The 510 cam is designed for heads that haven't been modified and compression ratio at 9.7 to 1. Since your bike is stock, the 510 cams would be the best. Also, the C designation is for Chain Drive and the G designation is for Gear Drive. Hope this helps!

 

I kind of feel stupid for not noticing the C and G difference but hey that's what we have friends for. Anyone with the 509 cam want to put their two cents in.

 

You'll find a bunch of info in the Engine Mechanical Topics and here is some reading for that late night insomnia.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/searc...rchid=48024654

You can post in that section and get a wealth of info as those guys eat cam bearing for breakfast.

For a quick lesson, here's some specs.
https://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/in...specs-overview

You'll get 50/50 answers that will say 509/510 is better. Both give a nice little bump over stock.
The 509 has more low end grunt than the 510.
The 510 should run out with higher RPM than 509.

My 509 runs off and leaves my friend's similar bike with 510 starting in every gear at lower RPM to speed. Don't know about higher RPM as he never caught me or closed the gap. That's what I experienced. He does have 30lbs on me though. His does have a better Harley sound.

G gear
C chain

Just go ahead and replace inner/outer bearings and lifters while you're there. 2000 is a good model but check the run-out.

hth

 

That 509 in a Dyna will give great off the line, while the 510 will be doing its best around your cruising speeds.
I had an Andrews 26 in my 88" its similar to to 509 I believe. Was great up to 4k then felt like it was out of steam. I did have a hard time keeping the front wheel down.
lots of street riding -509
lots of high speed highway 510

 

The Indy that installed my 509 gear drives had 510's in his and he says he likes my 509's better.

It is not an aggressive cam, where you are going to notice it IMHO is from 2500 to 5000. If you want to pass someone or get up to speed in a hurry, once you hit 2500 it will wake up.

the difference in the part numbers is chain vs gear.

That vintage bike has a good crank and bearings in it, gear drives should be no problem as the runout has to be less than .003 and those are the good crankshafts in that year so not an issue.

Now how much do you want to spend?

You could upgrade the cam plate and oil pump, and go with gear drives and that should make it pretty reliable, but I did that with Fuelling parts and the parts failed in under 6000 miles

The Drag parts I ended up replacing the Fuellings with were less money and I have better oil pressure and high flow too.

If you were on a budget, 509 chains, Cyclo shoes, and an upgraded oil pump will do just fine.

Now the next question is how are you going to tune it? FI or Carb?

 

Well the entire S&S kit runs about 1700 shipped. That's gear cams, forged support plate, new style high pressure oil pump, all the bearings, and new pushrods tubes and covers.That is in my budget for parts. I have cobra pipes on it right now and it is going to keep the stock CV carb. I may put a super E on it in the future I haven't decided whether or not to do it. I actually have one laying around.

 

well if you have a carb you are in great shape, a lot easier to jet a carb than d*ck around with tuners

 

Yeah I picked up that Dyna for $4200 and it only had 8,500 miles. I'm glad it still has a carb. I've yet to mess with a fuel injected bike.

 

I put the 509C in my road glide and was very happy with them. 509 seems to be the most recommended.