wow... sounds like you are doing the right things.... I would still try to get the directions and double check. You will end up finding that the reason it does not work is something really stupid!!! if you do, just say "found it, fixed it" and let it go!!!! some of us here are really out to help you!!!

 

Yeah, I emailed their customer service but I'm assuming they don't work on weekends, normally they're pretty quick. The picture I posted showed the entire instruction booklet that I received. The inside part was just about installing the actual mounting brackets for the fairing itself.

Oh and trust me I appreciate it a lot!

 

I see 2 other connections going straight to the battery, is there a fuse on those? Connections like that unfused can catch a bike on fire.

 

Battery tender connectors

 

Might want to double check this crimp. That ring terminal looks too large for the wire gauge leading into it. Might be crimped on the insulation, and not the bare wire itself?

 

It *should* be fine. The smaller one wouldn't fit over the screw. There was plenty of wire exposed, and I made it look exactly like the other one. The wires come to right before you could visibly see them coming out (on connector side) and maybe a few centimeters in on the opposite side.

 

Does your test light show power beyond the fuse?

 

Also does it show power at the rocker switch in and then out with the switch turned on?

 

Coming to look at this again, and see several posts.

Looking at the second picture of the wiring, it looks like an SAE connector like what is used for battery tenders.

at the end of the connector pigtail, there is usually a plus sign and a minus sign molded into the black plug.

Take the wire that has the plus sign on it and connect it to the positive of battery. Connect the one with the minus sign on it to the negative of the battery.

Make sure the fuse is in the fuse holder.

Plug the connector that is attached to the wires you connected to the battery to the connector on the fairing. If you trace the wires that are on the fairing’s pigtail, they go to a rocket switch. Another set of wires goes from that rocker switch to the radio. Make sure that is plugged securely in to the back of the radio.

I haven’t looked at their website but just looking at your pictures, it seems like that is what the intent is.

If you have it hooked up like I said and it doesn’t work with everything turned on, use the test light to test various points along the hot wire.

If tgat is good all the way to the way to the radio, use an ohm meter or a diode tester to test the continuity of your grounds.

This is a lot simpler than some of the other things you did before.

 

Just wondering, does your audio unit need the chassis grounded?