Same here. I thought I was the only one . My factory shop manual says 84-108 inch pounds, though. I use blue loctite also. When I change the oil I get the engine HOT first. At least a 30 minute ride, not idling in the driveway for 5 minutes.

 

Don't over tight them and you will never have an issue. And yes make sure you use the T27

 

I'm still not sure why you think it's a problem, They're way better than Phillips head which is the other viable alternative that they say is best for automation.
You can't possibly think that some guy should be screwin' them in by hand.

 

Torx have my more surface area to grab. Only good thing about hex is you might be able to get wrench on them if they strip.

I had some strip. Once I started using anti seize never had a problem again.

I tried drilling one, was PIA without drill press. Tap at hard angle with chisel. Put some duct tape around to protect chrome for when you slip.

 

I use anti seize, but loctite can help with corrosion.

Keep in mind you have to back down the torq value when using a lube.

I just snug. Not like it is a big deal if they leak, never have. I do use a tq wrench for many things, just not that. You using one, runs the risk of stripping since you are using factory specs, without a lube.

 

Bullshit.

 

Mine are still the same ones that came with the bike 12 years and no issues. I’ve never used loctite or anti seize, just hand tighten with my screw driver then a little more with my ratchet. I did it a few times with my torque wrench and it was about the same so I kept doing it this way. I am only on my 2nd cover gasket as well.

 

Guess I'm confused by all these unemployed mechanical and automotive engineers who know more about servicing a product than the original manufacturer. Loctite is designed to be used on bolts/nuts that are not intended to be removed (red for those never intended to be removed). Primary screws are part off regular servicing and as such will be removed regularly. The use of a good quality torque wrench will ensure the bolt/nut/screw has sufficient torque to stay in place and not strip out. When using a reference manual use the correct one. Haynes/Clymer/xxx don't count. Use the correct one. Using a torque spec from a 1969 Sportster may not be the same as a 2019 Softail. Correctly using the SM will help keep the backyard mechanic out of trouble but it does require carefully reading that procedure. Technical advice on a forum is worth what you paid for it.

I have owned the correct SM for every HD I've owned and will be getting one for the 19 Heritage soon.

 

No lube, no locktite, no anti seize, T27, torque to spec in manual, no problem.

It's my understanding that torx have more contact area than hex, so the head of the fastener can be shallower. Hex need more depth to make up for the lack of surface contact on the wrench, or so I have read.
Personally I've had more issues removing stubborn hex head fasteners than torx.

 

But......But, My daddy done told me that torque specs were not important, Just tighten it til it strips and then back it off 1/4 turn.