I'm guessing the bolts were not actually aluminum, and the primary was not actually steel. I think we all are thinking this. But hey, whadda I know...?

 

I may have it backwards with the steel vs aluminum. But they are certainly soft bolts and easy to strip. Torx was a stupid design. I should have swapped 3 years ago when I bought it.

Tried her gun too but the drill will get them..

 

I'm thinking I will swap to allens when I change my oil in a couple weeks. Torx sucks, if its not the bolt crapping out its the bit breaking teeth off or twisting.

 

Did you mistakenly use a T-25? Asking for a friend.

 

I used the ARP bolts too. Better socket purchase, and they look cool too.

 

I wonder if the cover bolts are in tension then seized? I just went through this nightmare with only one torx screw. Once the head was removed (left hand drill) I was able the unscrew the threaded portion by hand.

Yes, I used a T27, fully purchased into the screwhead, square to the head etc..... It just wouldn't let go...

My screws were steel, not AL.

 

I'll reiterate about the t-25 vs correct T-27. 25 feels just about right but "just about" isn't good enough or correct and the result is stripped Torx. Now a recommendation for getting really good tools not "k-mart" specials. With the exception of the initial 1K service, I do all my own servicing so I know the bolts are put on correctly and torqued correctly not tightened with a 3' breaker bar.

But the problem at hand. Before drilling try next size larger torx. A good hard one and drive it in with a hammer. Use an impact driver to remove. Drilling out is likely to result in a damaged cover and the requirement to drill and heli-coil the threads.

 

with the exception of the first oil change I did on my 2002 sportster, I have never had a problem with the torx bolts on the derby cover. in theory, the torx bolts should be a better bolt than the hex because there is more surface area for the tool.

if you don't want to ever have a problem with them, then use a small dab of anti seize. you don't have to reapply it each time either, once every 3 or 4 changes is fine. don't torque the bolts down to extreme tightness either. there isn't high pressure behind there, just snug them up. and do it in a star pattern, don't just go around the cover.

and the most important part, use a quality t-27. not one you bought from dollar general. if it feels like it isn't getting a good bite, give it a small tap, there may be some gunk in the bolt head.

done many oil changes since 2002. my bike, my wife's bike, and quite a few friends. have never had a issue since that first one after the dealer.

on my problem bolt, I just drilled the head off. after that, I was able to unscrew the shank by hand.

 

Had a "stuck' one on my Sporty years ago. Used a hand impact driver then added a little heat with propane torch. Replaced all bolts with stainless steel and a touch of anti-sieze. Pain in the ***!!!! BUT steel fasteners in an aluminum case are definitely a hazard!!! Galvanic corrosion is an issue!!!! Be careful all..... and use stainless steel whenever possible.

 

No I made sure it was a T27. I even went and bought a new one. I guess they are steel but the heads are butter and they feel seized like aluminum and steel will do to each other. Seems like a pretty poor place for a torx head when everything else is hex.
Oh well. It will get corrected and improved after I pick up some extractors.