If you don't have a volt meter, an "icepick" type circuit tester will work if the battery is charged. Don't you have a Harley Davidson or Clymer Service Manual? Did you put some Marvel Mystery Oil or some type of penetrating oil in the cylinders? Did you try to move the bike in gear to see if it's seized? Did you follow any advice given in the original thread? Did you even pull the plugs to see what they look like, and if they're rusted?
You bought a bike that requires a lot of maintenance, so get used to dickin' around with it..

 

sma deleted

 

Well, I put penetrating fluid down the cylinders for a few days (with a small shot of 20w50 down both cylinders later too), then took the plugs out and then pushed the bike down the lane. I could hear the pistons going up and down so therefore it is not seized. I lubed the chain and lubed the cables. Got a new ignition switch and brand new battery. I'm chipping away at the issues but I really need to get the electrical problem solved before I proceed.

 

Reckon you can bet more than that!

Sounds like this bike is getting done like that stuffed animal!

OP...why not answer valid questions?

Guess I'll leave put the Taiwanese Ladyboy joke for now....but.....

If I were a 78 sportster I'd reject a Foreign Ignition too!

Sorce

 

People tend to ignore what they don't understand on motorcycles and avoiding anything electrical is a big one for most, been working on these thing for others since the 70's and and you see common trends. Counter intuitive but grounding points corrode far quicker and more often than most realize, newer regularly ridden bikes suffer from this issue all the time, many many threads in here on loose or failing grounds. Bikes that been sitting for that long it's a guarantee you need to clean all the ground points, pull & flex the battery cables & ends or outright replace them, pop all snap connectors, spray a little WD and work them a few times to clean contact points as the surfaces build up a corrosion coat that allows just enough contact to show you have power but not enough to take a load when applied, they arc and burn off in an instant and now you are chasing gremlins.

 

Flip the kill switch back to "ON"

 

Because the bike was "customized" by the PO's husband, I would look for a fuse holder hidden somewhere. Trace out the wiring from the positive lead to the ignition. Hopefully you have a meter to check voltage at various points - do you have 12 (ish) volts at the ignition? One side should be always hot and the other should go on and off with the key. As mentioned - is the kill switch on? I've had those brain fart moments when it was something just that simple.

Next I would make sure I have a solid ground. As mentioned by TB, oxidation and/or loose connections can be revealed by an attempt to start the bike. Start at the negative terminal and make sure you are grounded to the frame.

I will say this - this should be an easy one to find. You went from fully functional to non-functional. It will be obvious.

 

Once I again I'll make the point. The bike has no power at all. The kill switch has nothing to do with that. The kill switch will kill the engine, not the electrics. I can't
even get to a point to use the kill switch. And by the way, that's the first thing I checked, and it is set to "run". (Thanks for the suggestion too though).

 

Your suggestions make perfect sense. I do have meters and testers so I will get on chipping away at
connections to ensure good contact.

 

Let us know how it goes. You have my curiosity up.