Rear Brakes squealing
#11
07-09-2007, 06:37 PM
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
ORIGINAL: fnroadking
I'm assuming that removing the three bolts on the caliber will allow it to come apart so I can replace the pads. Is that correct?
I'm assuming that removing the three bolts on the caliber will allow it to come apart so I can replace the pads. Is that correct?
- Remove mastercylinder lid to let air escape.
-Stick thin screwdriver between old pads and rotor and push pistons in.
- Use 1/4" 12 pt socket to remove pad pins from caliper. Pads will drop out.
- Replace pads and pins. Torque to spec.
- Replace master cylinder lid and pump up brakes.
#12
07-09-2007, 06:51 PM
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
No, no, no. Don't undo the three big bolts.
The shop manual says:
- Loosen the two smaller pad pin bolts but do not remove them.
- Loosen the top of your rear brake reservoir to allow brake fluid to back up when you push the calipers back into the brake body. Be ready to sop up a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
- Using a putty knife, pry the inside pad back against the piston into its bore. Be careful not to scratch to rotor surface.
- Now carefully pull the pad pins out until the brake pad drops out of the brake housing. If you pull the pad pins all the way out, the anti-rattle spring will drop out, then you will have difficulty putting it all back together.
- Install the new pad making sure the curved edge of the pad is toward the rear of the bike.
- Reinstall the two pad pins but do not tighten them.
- Pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside piston out until the pad contacts the rotor and is captured.
- Pry the outside pad away from the rotor.
- Pull the pad pins back out until the outside pad drops out.
- Install a new pad with the curved edge toward the rear of the bike.
- Inspect the pad pins for cracks, crude and corrosion. Clean them if needed.
- Install the pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 inch pounds.
- Pump the rear brake reservoir and pump the rear brake pedal until the pads are against the rotor.
- Check your brake fluid level to 1/4inch below the top of the bowl.
- Install the brake reservoir lid making sure the bellows isn't extended and tighten the two screws.
- Pump the brake pedal until the brake pedal feels normal.
Enjoy your ride.
The shop manual says:
- Loosen the two smaller pad pin bolts but do not remove them.
- Loosen the top of your rear brake reservoir to allow brake fluid to back up when you push the calipers back into the brake body. Be ready to sop up a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
- Using a putty knife, pry the inside pad back against the piston into its bore. Be careful not to scratch to rotor surface.
- Now carefully pull the pad pins out until the brake pad drops out of the brake housing. If you pull the pad pins all the way out, the anti-rattle spring will drop out, then you will have difficulty putting it all back together.
- Install the new pad making sure the curved edge of the pad is toward the rear of the bike.
- Reinstall the two pad pins but do not tighten them.
- Pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside piston out until the pad contacts the rotor and is captured.
- Pry the outside pad away from the rotor.
- Pull the pad pins back out until the outside pad drops out.
- Install a new pad with the curved edge toward the rear of the bike.
- Inspect the pad pins for cracks, crude and corrosion. Clean them if needed.
- Install the pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 inch pounds.
- Pump the rear brake reservoir and pump the rear brake pedal until the pads are against the rotor.
- Check your brake fluid level to 1/4inch below the top of the bowl.
- Install the brake reservoir lid making sure the bellows isn't extended and tighten the two screws.
- Pump the brake pedal until the brake pedal feels normal.
Enjoy your ride.
#13
07-09-2007, 07:02 PM
"Seeker of Freedom"
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
ORIGINAL: EasternSP
No, no, no. Don't undo the three big bolts.
The shop manual says:
- Loosen the two smaller pad pin bolts but do not remove them.
- Loosen the top of your rear brake reservoir to allow brake fluid to back up when you push the calipers back into the brake body. Be ready to sop up a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
- Using a putty knife, pry the inside pad back against the piston into its bore. Be careful not to scratch to rotor surface.
- Now carefully pull the pad pins out until the brake pad drops out of the brake housing. If you pull the pad pins all the way out, the anti-rattle spring will drop out, then you will have difficulty putting it all back together.
- Install the new pad making sure the curved edge of the pad is toward the rear of the bike.
- Reinstall the two pad pins but do not tighten them.
- Pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside piston out until the pad contacts the rotor and is captured.
- Pry the outside pad away from the rotor.
- Pull the pad pins back out until the outside pad drops out.
- Install a new pad with the curved edge toward the rear of the bike.
- Inspect the pad pins for cracks, crude and corrosion. Clean them if needed.
- Install the pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 inch pounds.
- Pump the rear brake reservoir and pump the rear brake pedal until the pads are against the rotor.
- Check your brake fluid level to 1/4inch below the top of the bowl.
- Install the brake reservoir lid making sure the bellows isn't extended and tighten the two screws.
- Pump the brake pedal until the brake pedal feels normal.
Enjoy your ride.
No, no, no. Don't undo the three big bolts.
The shop manual says:
- Loosen the two smaller pad pin bolts but do not remove them.
- Loosen the top of your rear brake reservoir to allow brake fluid to back up when you push the calipers back into the brake body. Be ready to sop up a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
- Using a putty knife, pry the inside pad back against the piston into its bore. Be careful not to scratch to rotor surface.
- Now carefully pull the pad pins out until the brake pad drops out of the brake housing. If you pull the pad pins all the way out, the anti-rattle spring will drop out, then you will have difficulty putting it all back together.
- Install the new pad making sure the curved edge of the pad is toward the rear of the bike.
- Reinstall the two pad pins but do not tighten them.
- Pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside piston out until the pad contacts the rotor and is captured.
- Pry the outside pad away from the rotor.
- Pull the pad pins back out until the outside pad drops out.
- Install a new pad with the curved edge toward the rear of the bike.
- Inspect the pad pins for cracks, crude and corrosion. Clean them if needed.
- Install the pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 inch pounds.
- Pump the rear brake reservoir and pump the rear brake pedal until the pads are against the rotor.
- Check your brake fluid level to 1/4inch below the top of the bowl.
- Install the brake reservoir lid making sure the bellows isn't extended and tighten the two screws.
- Pump the brake pedal until the brake pedal feels normal.
Enjoy your ride.
#14
07-09-2007, 07:29 PM
Road Master
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
You need the manual. Front brakes are tricky. Not rocket science, but tricker than the rear. Look hard at the diagrams so you understand the klugy system. I have not done a big twin, yet I know the Sportsters have a spring that pushes down on one of the pads to keep it in place. Very Klugy. Also one of the bolts is also a bushing, so you should not apply too much torque..
#15
07-09-2007, 07:31 PM
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
ORIGINAL: Deuces R Wild
Will this procedure work for front pads?
ORIGINAL: EasternSP
No, no, no. Don't undo the three big bolts.
The shop manual says:
- Loosen the two smaller pad pin bolts but do not remove them.
- Loosen the top of your rear brake reservoir to allow brake fluid to back up when you push the calipers back into the brake body. Be ready to sop up a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
- Using a putty knife, pry the inside pad back against the piston into its bore. Be careful not to scratch to rotor surface.
- Now carefully pull the pad pins out until the brake pad drops out of the brake housing. If you pull the pad pins all the way out, the anti-rattle spring will drop out, then you will have difficulty putting it all back together.
- Install the new pad making sure the curved edge of the pad is toward the rear of the bike.
- Reinstall the two pad pins but do not tighten them.
- Pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside piston out until the pad contacts the rotor and is captured.
- Pry the outside pad away from the rotor.
- Pull the pad pins back out until the outside pad drops out.
- Install a new pad with the curved edge toward the rear of the bike.
- Inspect the pad pins for cracks, crude and corrosion. Clean them if needed.
- Install the pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 inch pounds.
- Pump the rear brake reservoir and pump the rear brake pedal until the pads are against the rotor.
- Check your brake fluid level to 1/4inch below the top of the bowl.
- Install the brake reservoir lid making sure the bellows isn't extended and tighten the two screws.
- Pump the brake pedal until the brake pedal feels normal.
Enjoy your ride.
No, no, no. Don't undo the three big bolts.
The shop manual says:
- Loosen the two smaller pad pin bolts but do not remove them.
- Loosen the top of your rear brake reservoir to allow brake fluid to back up when you push the calipers back into the brake body. Be ready to sop up a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
- Using a putty knife, pry the inside pad back against the piston into its bore. Be careful not to scratch to rotor surface.
- Now carefully pull the pad pins out until the brake pad drops out of the brake housing. If you pull the pad pins all the way out, the anti-rattle spring will drop out, then you will have difficulty putting it all back together.
- Install the new pad making sure the curved edge of the pad is toward the rear of the bike.
- Reinstall the two pad pins but do not tighten them.
- Pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside piston out until the pad contacts the rotor and is captured.
- Pry the outside pad away from the rotor.
- Pull the pad pins back out until the outside pad drops out.
- Install a new pad with the curved edge toward the rear of the bike.
- Inspect the pad pins for cracks, crude and corrosion. Clean them if needed.
- Install the pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 inch pounds.
- Pump the rear brake reservoir and pump the rear brake pedal until the pads are against the rotor.
- Check your brake fluid level to 1/4inch below the top of the bowl.
- Install the brake reservoir lid making sure the bellows isn't extended and tighten the two screws.
- Pump the brake pedal until the brake pedal feels normal.
Enjoy your ride.
#16
07-09-2007, 07:32 PM
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
ORIGINAL: Broken Leg Rider
You need the manual. Front brakes are tricky. Not rocket science, but tricker than the rear. Look hard at the diagrams so you understand the klugy system. I have not done a big twin, yet I know the Sportsters have a spring that pushes down on one of the pads to keep it in place. Very Klugy. Also one of the bolts is also a bushing, so you should not apply too much torque..
You need the manual. Front brakes are tricky. Not rocket science, but tricker than the rear. Look hard at the diagrams so you understand the klugy system. I have not done a big twin, yet I know the Sportsters have a spring that pushes down on one of the pads to keep it in place. Very Klugy. Also one of the bolts is also a bushing, so you should not apply too much torque..
#18
07-09-2007, 07:54 PM
"Seeker of Freedom"
RE: Rear Brakes squealing
Thanks, 15k service due in 500 miles and it looks like both sets need changed out.
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