cleaning/polishing products
#12
Here is a tip on leather. "Most" leather seats in vehicles is coated. A few drops of water on the leather will tell you if its noted or not. If it soaks into the leather, uncoated. If it beads on top it's coated.
Put leather conditioner on coated leather really doesnt do anything because it does not penetrate thru the coating to get to the leather. The conditioner will "Sit" on top of the coating, dirt/dust will stick to the conditioner. For this type of seat I clean it good with diluted APC and then Aerospace 303. give it 10 minutes then take a MF to it. 303 protects very good against the sun.
For uncoated leather, leather conditioner works well for it. I typically use Leather Masters. Their cleaner and conditioner are very good, much better then what can be found at the auto parts store.
My Avalanche has uncoated leather seats. Every year I use the Leatherique system. It is hands down the best I have used, as good or better then my steamer. It is a long process but the results are worth it.
The biggest thing with leather is keeping it clean, no dirt or sand on it to grind into the leather or stitching.
Put leather conditioner on coated leather really doesnt do anything because it does not penetrate thru the coating to get to the leather. The conditioner will "Sit" on top of the coating, dirt/dust will stick to the conditioner. For this type of seat I clean it good with diluted APC and then Aerospace 303. give it 10 minutes then take a MF to it. 303 protects very good against the sun.
For uncoated leather, leather conditioner works well for it. I typically use Leather Masters. Their cleaner and conditioner are very good, much better then what can be found at the auto parts store.
My Avalanche has uncoated leather seats. Every year I use the Leatherique system. It is hands down the best I have used, as good or better then my steamer. It is a long process but the results are worth it.
The biggest thing with leather is keeping it clean, no dirt or sand on it to grind into the leather or stitching.
#13
www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wg5500.html
Apply after washing *** directed. I let cure for about a week, wsh, then add a coat of carnuba wax. The sealant protects for 6 months where the wax only protects for 6 weeks. I use the carnuba because it gives a deeper shine compared to the sealant
Apply after washing *** directed. I let cure for about a week, wsh, then add a coat of carnuba wax. The sealant protects for 6 months where the wax only protects for 6 weeks. I use the carnuba because it gives a deeper shine compared to the sealant
#16
It hasn't when I have used it on some bikes. I spray 1-2 sprays on a applicator and apply. MF on the seat afterwards. No need to gob it on .A little goes a long way. It won't be tacky, but it won't be slippery.
Not all seats are the same though obviously. if you are going to use it for the first time, try it on the nose of the seat, where you don't actually sit. If you don't like it a APC will take it right off. If its good, then apply to the rest.
This "Test" is what is on interior detailing products. Companies disclose this for potential staining, discoloring.
Not all seats are the same though obviously. if you are going to use it for the first time, try it on the nose of the seat, where you don't actually sit. If you don't like it a APC will take it right off. If its good, then apply to the rest.
This "Test" is what is on interior detailing products. Companies disclose this for potential staining, discoloring.
Last edited by eaglefan1; 04-16-2019 at 10:13 PM.
#17
#18
845 is a tough budget friendly wax. One of the longer lasting ones made.
My thoughts on wax are based on where I live. The pollen here is so bad right now its horrible. Wax on a vehicle would just attract it even more. Not a knock on wax, just how it is. I have a jar of Fuzion and its a great wax, I just don't use it.
My thoughts on wax are based on where I live. The pollen here is so bad right now its horrible. Wax on a vehicle would just attract it even more. Not a knock on wax, just how it is. I have a jar of Fuzion and its a great wax, I just don't use it.
#19
eaglefan, i agree. For the money 845 is hard to beat, and a little goes a long way. I actually keep it in a spray bottle, and just spritz a red pad with it. The pollen is so bad that I don't think it matters what you use. I coated using Mckees 37 new ceramic coat, and for the money that is some nice stuff. I have never tried fuzion, that is zymol isnt it? i have used jet seal, and thought it was ok. For matte finish flitzs and wizards detail spray was the best.
Last edited by Hdbkstl; 04-17-2019 at 07:32 AM.
#20
Fuzion is made by Wolfgang.
I haven't used the Mckees stuff yet. When I coat cars for customers 99% of the time its 22PLE. The results and durability of it is outstanding.
Im not a chemical guys fan. Their stripper scent for interiors is pretty good though.
For sealants I use 4Star, DGPS, BlackFire, or Ultima. These sealants are so easy to use they are foolproof. 2 coats on a vehicle thats sits outside is 4-6 months down here which is pretty good. Average wax might last 4-6 weeks. sun and rain here is brutal on a LSP
I wouldn't own anything matte, but if I did I would put the Gyeon matte coating on it immediately. Matte just doesnt appeal to me
I haven't used the Mckees stuff yet. When I coat cars for customers 99% of the time its 22PLE. The results and durability of it is outstanding.
Im not a chemical guys fan. Their stripper scent for interiors is pretty good though.
For sealants I use 4Star, DGPS, BlackFire, or Ultima. These sealants are so easy to use they are foolproof. 2 coats on a vehicle thats sits outside is 4-6 months down here which is pretty good. Average wax might last 4-6 weeks. sun and rain here is brutal on a LSP
I wouldn't own anything matte, but if I did I would put the Gyeon matte coating on it immediately. Matte just doesnt appeal to me