No need for a wheel chock. Mine is adjustable from 6" to 9" if I remember right and I've been using it since 2010. It even held my bike up as I was swinging a sledge hammer at the rear axle that I found later had welded itself to the race. Bike was never in any danger of falling off this lift.
I just did a cam swap on my Lowrider. all I used was a scissor jack to lift the back up enough to spin the tire. Didn't chock the front and had no problem. I only kept it jacked up when finding TDC and then lowered it back down.
I've lifted my Road Glide Ultra high enough on a scissor jack just enough to turn the rear tire, the front didn't flop around on me during any work involving the rear tire. If you decide to go to a scissor jack look for a wide deck variety. As far as the front wheel, a cinder block on either side will work with a shop rag between the block and wheel assy. Easy peasy
I know I should be more confident working on a bike since I work on cars/trucks
I just get nervous when it comes to my bike LOL it’s my pride and joy, just don’t want to F it up
Looks like you have a plan to secure the front wheel as you lift the rear end. Go for it and take your time. Let us know how you like the cams. Do you have access to a dyno ?? You will for sure need to install a race tuner and dyno tune it after the work you're planning. Good luck man !!!!
I just did a cam swap on my Lowrider. all I used was a scissor jack to lift the back up enough to spin the tire. Didn't chock the front and had no problem. I only kept it jacked up when finding TDC and then lowered it back down.
Originally Posted by seniorsuperglideE8
I've lifted my Road Glide Ultra high enough on a scissor jack just enough to turn the rear tire, the front didn't flop around on me during any work involving the rear tire. If you decide to go to a scissor jack look for a wide deck variety. As far as the front wheel, a cinder block on either side will work with a shop rag between the block and wheel assy. Easy peasy
Looks like you have a plan to secure the front wheel as you lift the rear end. Go for it and take your time. Let us know how you like the cams. Do you have access to a dyno ?? You will for sure need to install a race tuner and dyno tune it after the work you're planning. Good luck man !!!!
I have the FP3, it has my cam and exhaust maps, if It doesn’t work out I will be getting a PV Tuner. I plan on a Dyno tune eventually
I have a 2018 RK, I’m putting a CR460 in it, I have an Arlen Ness AC, I also picked up the S&S Cam Plate, and oil Pump
My exhaust is FM Jackpot Headers 2-1-2, with TAB Bamsticks and Zombie Baffles
This is simple, safe and cheap to do. Go to Harbor Freight and get the wheel chock that you can ride into and the arm swings up behind the front wheel locking the bike in place. (Mine is gray) Attach (bolt) the chock to a piece of 4x8 - 3/4" plywood in the center of the sheet at the end of the 4' wide area. Use fender washers on the bottom side of the plywood under the chock.
Bolt 2 eye bolts 6" in on each side across from where your handle bars (or crash bar) are located once the bike is in the chock. These are used to tie the bike down once in the chock. Ride the bike in, get off and tie it down. Your bike sets on a full sheet of plywood, is tied down and won't tip over. You can do what you want this way and you can store it against a wall out of the way. I have a table and a lift. I use the plywood deal the most.
Yes there is a downfall. You have to get on the floor to change the oil or work low on the bike. But it is secure to do most anything. Good luck!
Last edited by Bass Player; 03-30-2019 at 11:14 PM.
Just a thought if you have the ground clearance. Run the lift arms in all the way, park the bike where the red line is and extend them out under the bike. You will be using the same basic lift points as a motorcycle jack. We did this on my bosses road king on a slow day to get his back wheel off. It was very stable.
03-30-2019, 09:54 AM
