$ Compensator se vs Baker
#1
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The SE compensator seemed to have solved the problem on bikes from about 2011.
I just had my changed on the 2010 Road King and found the cost delta to be even greater when factoring in the extra parts needed with the Baker that are included with the SE kit. Needless to say I sent with the HD SE arrangement.
If i was running some really high HP and torque engine in competitive/racing applications perhaps the Baker would have made sense - but that's not the case. The way I see it, you don;t hear about compensator problems in the 2011+ bikes when the SE was used by the MoCo.
I just had my changed on the 2010 Road King and found the cost delta to be even greater when factoring in the extra parts needed with the Baker that are included with the SE kit. Needless to say I sent with the HD SE arrangement.
If i was running some really high HP and torque engine in competitive/racing applications perhaps the Baker would have made sense - but that's not the case. The way I see it, you don;t hear about compensator problems in the 2011+ bikes when the SE was used by the MoCo.
#4
Generally speaking this is true. But if PO put 3000 miles on it in 7 years and the current owner put 35k on it in 3 yrs, and the current owners riding habits stay consist, he will only get another 3 or 4 years out of another OEM comp.
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compensator
I put a S.E. on my 07 Ultra at 27000 miles. I think the chain tensioner had issues also. so went will the SE comp. and a baker chain tensioner. no more bucking on hot startup, easier shifting and easy to find neutral. SE kit was complete, didn't need anything else to do the job.
MGH
MGH
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#8
I had my 2011 OEM comp go out and I replaced it with the SE version that has oiling tray. When that one has had it I'm going to add another belleville washer/spring from the old comp to make it a sprocket (it's cheaper than buying a sprocket). I'm running an S&S forged crank now so I'm not overly concerned about it shifting. Even with a compensator, now that the bike has more horsepower there are times when creeping along that I need to feather the clutch to keep the bike from jumping, say 1-5 mph in first. Once you learn how to isolate/mitigate the power pulses from the rear wheel it becomes second nature.
All that said, I wouldn't do it on a bike that didn't have compression releases or EZ Start cams.
All that said, I wouldn't do it on a bike that didn't have compression releases or EZ Start cams.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; 02-26-2019 at 06:16 AM.
#9
Thanks everyone,
bought the bike used with 2,250 miles years ago, now has 48k. I am also installing the se255 cams that I already have. Like what Baker did, but will probably go SE, looking at trikes in near future.
I was just worried the SE was no different than stock, but see that it is improved.
Later-
bought the bike used with 2,250 miles years ago, now has 48k. I am also installing the se255 cams that I already have. Like what Baker did, but will probably go SE, looking at trikes in near future.
I was just worried the SE was no different than stock, but see that it is improved.
Later-
#10
I had to have mine replaced on my '09. My indy put in the SE Comp. I have had an annoying clunck sound at idol. He said (as well as taking my bike into a couple dealers) also said. "It's Normal" It won't hurt anything. I've put over 20k miles on it but still have the clunk at idol. This year I'm putting in the Baker because I'm sick of the noise. Maybe it doesn't hurt anything, but it bothers me....