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Sheared bolts

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  #21  
Old 05-10-2018 | 12:51 PM
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Duracell
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I wouldn't use regular tap at all in aluminum but I do use thread chase tap to clean out old locktite and any corrosion.
 
  #22  
Old 05-10-2018 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Duracell
I wouldn't use regular tap at all in aluminum but I do use thread chase tap to clean out old locktite and any corrosion.

Pay attention here...
 
  #23  
Old 05-10-2018 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Veekness
You might want to think about installing Timeserts. Would NOT install Helicoils. And someone might come on here with good reasons why my idea isn't so pretty good.
Timeserts would be a good repair BUT from what I see that wheel's roached, mating flange is gone it's so gouged & dug out. .
 
  #24  
Old 05-10-2018 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Duracell
I wouldn't use regular tap at all in aluminum but I do use thread chase tap to clean out old locktite and any corrosion.
Explain this to me, I'm genuinely curious. A tap was used to put the threads in there the first time. If there is no damage to the existing threads, a tap won't remove any additional material.
 
  #25  
Old 05-11-2018 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by firehawk6
Explain this to me, I'm genuinely curious. A tap was used to put the threads in there the first time. If there is no damage to the existing threads, a tap won't remove any additional material.
https://www.autoserviceprofessional....threads?Page=2

NOTE: The vast majority of taps are designed for creating female threaded locations. By their nature, these tools cut the parent metal in order to create the threads. When you need to “restore” or clean-up “boogered” threads in a critical engine component, such as the cylinder head threaded holes in an engine block, avoid using a normal cutting tap. Instead, use a “forming” or “chaser” tap that is specifically designed to chase and re-form the existing threads instead of cutting thread material away.

By using a regular cutting tap in a block’s cylinder head bolt holes, you could easily remove too much thread material, weakening the threads and possibly resulting in cylinder head gasket failure down the road (along with a resulting warped head, oil/coolant cross-contamination, etc.).

Chaser taps will commonly feature very large flutes (open grooves intersecting the chaser threads), which promote thread cleaning during insertion.
 
  #26  
Old 05-11-2018 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by turbotom1052
where the bolts of the right grade?
That's the first thing I thought. Best to use OE spec or higher.

I doubt an insurance claim will fly. And even it if did, the incident might give reason for a rate increase, depending on history.
 
  #27  
Old 05-11-2018 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn81
I sub to his channel. This happened less than 200 miles after I put wheel back on, they didn't loosen that quick.
Oh yes they will
 
  #28  
Old 05-12-2018 | 07:34 AM
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1flhtk4me
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To repair the wheel properly with inserts (Time or Helicoil) the wheel should be set up on a vertical mill so the bolt pattern and hole sizes can be controlled.
This could be costly if you don't have the tools.
That wheel does not look like it should be repaired anyway!

I Agree that the after market bolts may have not been a high quality like the stock fasteners or there were assembly issues.
 

Last edited by 1flhtk4me; 05-12-2018 at 07:36 AM.
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