Sheared bolts
#12
So i have been in the insurance industry a long time and used to estimate motorcycles at Progressive. Maintenance items and broken bolts are not covered.
That being said sometimes the damage caused to the bike may be covered but not the sheared bolts. If you get a flat tire it’s not covered but if the tire tears apart and shreds your fender it may be covered.
Your call but there might be coverage. I have large and small accident forgiveness with Progressive as I have been with them for a long time with no claims. $900 less your deductible if you have one. Mine have disappeared.
That being said sometimes the damage caused to the bike may be covered but not the sheared bolts. If you get a flat tire it’s not covered but if the tire tears apart and shreds your fender it may be covered.
Your call but there might be coverage. I have large and small accident forgiveness with Progressive as I have been with them for a long time with no claims. $900 less your deductible if you have one. Mine have disappeared.
Last edited by Ben221; 05-08-2018 at 09:21 AM.
#15
I don't like using a tap to clean aluminum threads. What type of tap did you use? I'd sooner use acetone,a small bore brush, and compressed air. I know Performance Machine is a reputable company but I'd sooner use stock OEM bolts from a Harley dealer or premium grade bolts from an industrial or fastener supply house. Were the mating surfaces squeaky clean, and was there 100% contact between the pulley and the hub when you reassembled them?
Last edited by RK4ME; 05-08-2018 at 11:23 AM.
#16
I don't like using a tap to clean aluminum threads. What type of tap did you use? I'd sooner use acetone,a small bore brush, and compressed air. I know Performance Machine is a reputable company but I'd sooner use stock OEM bolts from a Harley dealer or premium grade bolts from an industrial or fastener supply house. Were the mating surfaces squeaky clean, and was there 100% contact between the pulley and the hub when you reassembled them?
Looks to me like soft bolts is your issue. In any event good luck.
#18
Looking at the end of the bolts, you can still see the "dimple" at the end of the bolt and none of the threads look damaged. It seems as if the bolts weren't long enough and just didn't have enough thread to grab onto for a secure grip. Remember that the torque specs apply only if all of the threads are being used. If only half the bolt was threaded, the few aluminum threads on the wheel touching gripping the screw would have been stressed.
Might want to consider having a shop drill in a wider hole so you can use thicker and longer bolts.
Might want to consider having a shop drill in a wider hole so you can use thicker and longer bolts.
#20
I had that happen years ago. I didn't do the work so it was all on the tech/indy and they stood tall - getting me a new pulley, which had been damaged, no pushback or questions asked and going a different route with the bolts and using stronger Loctite. They felt terrible mainly because of the endangerment to me.
The good news is that you are OK - that situation can end very badly. You can fix the damage. I suggest you research what bolts are best - I was told that the allen-type hex bolts that look better are often the ones that back out and it would be best to go with the more traditional hex-bolt. Again, that's just what I was told. To be safe, I heeded the advice and all has been good since - just my experience.
Good luck with the repairs and safe riding to you.
The good news is that you are OK - that situation can end very badly. You can fix the damage. I suggest you research what bolts are best - I was told that the allen-type hex bolts that look better are often the ones that back out and it would be best to go with the more traditional hex-bolt. Again, that's just what I was told. To be safe, I heeded the advice and all has been good since - just my experience.
Good luck with the repairs and safe riding to you.