Hauling bike in truck bed.
#41
#42
Please don't judge my sanity.....
I have an 19' v nose enclosed. @/*?:!&)#!!!! Only gets 8.5mpg pulling trailer. Driving appx. 3000 miles total. Truck will get 15mpg without.
I have to go to Texas, then n.c. then n. IL. Seems like a lot of senseless b.s. to be pulling a trailer.
I have an 19' v nose enclosed. @/*?:!&)#!!!! Only gets 8.5mpg pulling trailer. Driving appx. 3000 miles total. Truck will get 15mpg without.
I have to go to Texas, then n.c. then n. IL. Seems like a lot of senseless b.s. to be pulling a trailer.
I hear you on the mileage, I have a 4 door Silverado. And for the record we’re all nuts!
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jt metal (04-07-2018)
#43
I had no problems hauling my SGS in the back of my 2017 RAM with a 6.5' box. Used a Harbor Freight wheel chock in the front and the rear tire rested on the gate. No damage 500 miles each way to Daytona and back. The entire weight of the bike is not on the tailgate. Loaded it at the dealer here and unloaded it at Rossmeyer HD in Daytona. When I left, I saw people loading bikes in the back of trucks at this hill in front of an RV park and did that since it was closer to the house.
#44
#45
#46
Measure and make your own cables. I have used suspension limiter straps as well. Bolt them on and never think twice about them.
Ive even seen eye bolts and turnbuckles in place of tailgate cables.
and again, please secure the ramp to the truck somehow. If your front wheel makes it into the truck and you some how need to give it a little throttle to get the back the rest of the way in, you'll spit the ramp right out from under you. A quick and dirty ratchet strap from the ramp (anywhere near the center'ish) down to your hitch (chain hook loops work well) and you avoid an expensive and dangerous situation.
Ive even seen eye bolts and turnbuckles in place of tailgate cables.
and again, please secure the ramp to the truck somehow. If your front wheel makes it into the truck and you some how need to give it a little throttle to get the back the rest of the way in, you'll spit the ramp right out from under you. A quick and dirty ratchet strap from the ramp (anywhere near the center'ish) down to your hitch (chain hook loops work well) and you avoid an expensive and dangerous situation.
Last edited by 67Shuv; 04-07-2018 at 05:32 PM.
#47
Measure and make your own cables. I have used suspension limiter straps as well. Bolt them on and never think twice about them.
Ive even seen eye bolts and turnbuckles in place of tailgate cables.
and again, please secure the ramp to the truck somehow. If your front wheel makes it into the truck and you some how need to give it a little throttle to get the back the rest of the way in, you'll spit the ramp right out from under you. A quick and dirty ratchet strap from the ramp (anywhere near the center'ish) down to your hitch (chain hook loops work well) and you avoid an expensive and dangerous situation.
Ive even seen eye bolts and turnbuckles in place of tailgate cables.
and again, please secure the ramp to the truck somehow. If your front wheel makes it into the truck and you some how need to give it a little throttle to get the back the rest of the way in, you'll spit the ramp right out from under you. A quick and dirty ratchet strap from the ramp (anywhere near the center'ish) down to your hitch (chain hook loops work well) and you avoid an expensive and dangerous situation.
#49
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2) what, if anything do guys use (wheel chock) on front tire of bike? My truck has a plastic bed liner.
Chevy with 6.5' box
Chevy with 6.5' box
Might want to "test fit" your bike to see if the front fender edge touches the back of the cab before/during the synching process. Had this happen on my ZX12R when I did track days.
A plastic liner is ok, but sprayed on rubber liners are a lot better for things that you don't want to slide.
Last edited by NORTY FLATZ; 04-08-2018 at 11:59 AM. Reason: speeling! LOL
#50