First start up after storage
#1
First start up after storage
I'm just curious if there is anything specific you guys do before you start the bike up after winter storage. In previous years I normally would take the bike out for a ride once every few weeks or so during winter or at least start it up and let it idle for a few minutes. But this year I parked it in early December and have not started it, I plan to just keep it on the tender until March or whenever it warms up around here.
I guess my concern is there's no oil in the cylinders and not running it all winter then starting it up could damage the pistons or cylinder walls.
And yes I already know... "real bikers" ride all year long.
I guess my concern is there's no oil in the cylinders and not running it all winter then starting it up could damage the pistons or cylinder walls.
And yes I already know... "real bikers" ride all year long.
#2
#3
This was the worst thing you can do. If you aren't going to ride it and get the engine to full operating temperature you shouldn't start it at all during the winter months. You caused more wear and tear doing that than what you are concerned about now. Start it this spring when you are ready to go for a ride and everything will be just fine.
The following 2 users liked this post by Riich:
mixxedupmedia (02-03-2017),
Uncle G. (10-24-2018)
#4
I too warm up my bike every few weeks during the winter.
-- It coats the parts inside the engine so condensation doesn't get a chance to form surface rust inside.
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me.
-- It coats the parts inside the engine so condensation doesn't get a chance to form surface rust inside.
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me.
The following users liked this post:
letapia (02-11-2017)
#5
In previous years I normally would take the bike out for a ride once every few weeks or so during winter
or at least start it up and let it idle for a few minutes.
But this year I parked it in early December and have not started it, I plan to just keep it on the tender until March or whenever it warms up around here.
I guess my concern is there's no oil in the cylinders and not running it all winter then starting it up could damage the pistons or cylinder walls.
And yes I already know... "real bikers" ride all year long.
I guess my concern is there's no oil in the cylinders and not running it all winter then starting it up could damage the pistons or cylinder walls.
And yes I already know... "real bikers" ride all year long.
#6
If I get lucky and get a mild day or 2 thru the winter, I will exercise the bikes to circulate fluids, get parts moving, etc. Upon reaching the beginning of riding season, I do the following to dilute any StaBil in the tank from the beginning of "storage season": 1) ride until tank reaches 3/4 - top off; 2) continue to ride until tank reaches 1/2 - top off; 3) continue to ride until tank reaches 1/4 - top off; 4) thereafter, ride until my wife breaks my ***** about "you're going to run out of gas" and fill up as needed.
#7
This was the worst thing you can do. If you aren't going to ride it and get the engine to full operating temperature you shouldn't start it at all during the winter months. You caused more wear and tear doing that than what you are concerned about now. Start it this spring when you are ready to go for a ride and everything will be just fine.
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#8
In the fall I clean it, put a good coat of wax on, change the oil, put a little extra air in the tires, put a battery tender on and cover it up.
I never touch it or start it during the winter.
In the spring I check the fluids, tires and tire pressure and start it up.
This method has worked with my bikes for 50 years now.
I never touch it or start it during the winter.
In the spring I check the fluids, tires and tire pressure and start it up.
This method has worked with my bikes for 50 years now.
#9
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
The bike will be fine if you just leave it be.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me
#10
If you've added stabil and used ethanol free gas there's no need to worry about the fuel going stale. Fog the cylinders with oil before storage no need to worry about condensation in the cylinders.
Change your oil in all 3 holes before parking it.
Even if you let it "warm up" to full operating temperature you are forming condensation in the cases, and not getting it hot enough to evaporate it out, especially in the transmission and primary. You're making corrosive soup, it's better to change the fluids, fog the cylinders and let it sit till your riding season starts. Water, oil and heat form corrosive compounds.
Change your oil in all 3 holes before parking it.
Even if you let it "warm up" to full operating temperature you are forming condensation in the cases, and not getting it hot enough to evaporate it out, especially in the transmission and primary. You're making corrosive soup, it's better to change the fluids, fog the cylinders and let it sit till your riding season starts. Water, oil and heat form corrosive compounds.