First start up after storage
#11
02-03-2017, 10:04 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
#12
02-03-2017, 11:10 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
I too warm up my bike every few weeks during the winter.
-- It coats the parts inside the engine so condensation doesn't get a chance to form surface rust inside.
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me.
-- It coats the parts inside the engine so condensation doesn't get a chance to form surface rust inside.
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me.
#13
02-03-2017, 11:23 AM
I'm just curious if there is anything specific you guys do before you start the bike up after winter storage. In previous years I normally would take the bike out for a ride once every few weeks or so during winter or at least start it up and let it idle for a few minutes. But this year I parked it in early December and have not started it, I plan to just keep it on the tender until March or whenever it warms up around here.
I guess my concern is there's no oil in the cylinders and not running it all winter then starting it up could damage the pistons or cylinder walls.
And yes I already know... "real bikers" ride all year long.
I guess my concern is there's no oil in the cylinders and not running it all winter then starting it up could damage the pistons or cylinder walls.
And yes I already know... "real bikers" ride all year long.
Starting these modern bikes in the Spring is just boring; turn the key,hit the starter, and they fire right up - not like the old days.
#14
02-03-2017, 11:31 AM
you are not getting the oil up to temp in a few minutes. you need to ride that thing for twenty miles for it to get the oil hot enough to burn any condensation out of it. maybe even father than that. oil temp is what is important, not engine temp. this is exactly the wrong thing to do to your bike in the winter months. you would do the bike more good by waxing it once in awhile during the winter. that's the way i spend time with my bike when it's cold, plus my beer frig. is out there.
#15
02-03-2017, 11:53 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
I don't believe there's really that much less oil on the cylinder walls than when you just leave it overnight.
I don't believe that. Within about a mile, it should be up to full operating temperature.
you are not getting the oil up to temp in a few minutes. you need to ride that thing for twenty miles for it to get the oil hot enough to burn any condensation out of it. maybe even father than that. oil temp is what is important, not engine temp. this is exactly the wrong thing to do to your bike in the winter months. you would do the bike more good by waxing it once in awhile during the winter. that's the way i spend time with my bike when it's cold, plus my beer frig. is out there.
I don't believe that. Within about a mile, it should be up to full operating temperature.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; 02-03-2017 at 05:48 PM.
#17
02-03-2017, 12:16 PM
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Well, I'm not a "biker"...that was in the 70s and I don't ride "all year long". But I do ride when the weathers nice. I don't ride when it's raining or if there's rain coming or when it's below 40°. But then, I don't store my bike...after all, it's Texas.
#18
02-03-2017, 01:57 PM
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#19
02-03-2017, 02:42 PM
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The engine cases or metals maybe warm within a mile or so but oils in the primary, tranny and oil reservoir need to reach 180* for about 20 minutes to cause the condensation that has formed to evaporate. When you pull the dipstick out and you see the milky appearance, that is moisture in your oil. Sorry, you seem to have a problem believing us.
#20
02-03-2017, 04:19 PM
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Roll it around yes but dont run it unless you are going to heat it up all the way.
Bad idea.
Bad idea.
I too warm up my bike every few weeks during the winter.
-- It coats the parts inside the engine so condensation doesn't get a chance to form surface rust inside.
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me.
-- It coats the parts inside the engine so condensation doesn't get a chance to form surface rust inside.
-- It moves the fuel through the lines so it doesn't get stale.
-- It returns any oil that may have drained down into the sump.
-- The battery also benefits from the temporary discharge of starting the bike. Some of the better battery tenders do this on purpose to prevent plate sulfation.
-- I also move the bike a few inches so the tires don't develop "flat spots".
As far as running it to full operating temperature, it doesn't take but a few minutes to bring the engine to full operating temperature. I know because I monitor the temperature in my phone (via the FP3's FM) and it gets to 198-210 degrees quickly.
But most importantly, it gives me a chance to spend time with the bike which is therapeutic for me.