Welp I finally made an oops on the handle bar swap on my street glide. I was putting the new brake line on and went a little to far with the bolt and stripped out the inside. Can this be fixed or am I going to need a new master cylinder?

 

There is not a Yes or No answer.
You might be able to get the proper tap and chase the damaged threads back far enough to hold an undamaged Banjo bolt to the proper torque and not have it leak.
What I'm saying is you might be able to salvage the damaged MC,,
Your ability to do that is what's in question,, I realize things like this do happen but cross-threading the Banjo bolt is a real bonehead move.
It'll cost some money to try to fix it, with no guarantee , but less then a new MC.

 

If you pulled the threads out of the mc you may be able to helicoil or timesert it but there has to be enough material left to drill it to a larger size. If there isn't enough metal left you're probably going to have to get another mc. You can probably score a good used one much cheaper than a new one. Or this is the perfect time to get that chrome one that you've always wanted!!!

 

No you don't do this with a sealing thread on a closed wet system like hydraulics or brakes, it will never seal again as the fluid will work it's way around the insert or helicoil and weep constantly.

OP unless you have the right tools and a solid mechanical background find another MC and chalk this one to a life's lesson about proper torque. As has been said if you have the stock black one there's a load of them on ebay and in indy shops to be had very reasonable , just ask to be sure you aren't buying the same issue as yours.

 

You need a new one. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and your life depends on it working correctly without air bubbles or loss of pressure. Sorry, just my opinion.

 

I tossed the new banjo bolt that came with the new brake line kit and put the original bolt in and I can get it pretty tight. Does anyone know the torque value for these banjo bolts? The service manual that I just found says 14-20 ft lbs but that seems like a lot.

 

That seems about right. On my old 84 the torque spec was 17-22 ft lbs if it had a steel or rubber washer. It was even more, but I don't remember what it was, if you had a copper washer. I also agree that you should not try to fix the old one with a helicoil. Replace that thing. It's broke and shouldn't be repaired, so replace it.

 

My book say's 17-22 ft lbs,,

 

This is not a job for the inexperienced. Buy the replacement part as suggested.

 

Before you busy with torquing it how many threads did the new bolt go in past the damaged part ? You will need at least 5 to 6 full turns on new threads to hold and not strip out again pulled down to anywhere near 20 ft lbs. I'd say at this point just get it tight enough to not leak and leave it alone.