Retuning
#1
#2
#3
Sorry, its a 2016 FatBob.
With that said, is there a time when its too early for this kind of upgrade.
Only had the bike a week with 100 miles so far.
Should I wait longer before the new breather and retune?
With that said, is there a time when its too early for this kind of upgrade.
Only had the bike a week with 100 miles so far.
Should I wait longer before the new breather and retune?
Last edited by sac130e; 11-08-2015 at 12:49 PM.
#4
I'd let the engine break in more before you start messing with the air-fuel ratio, which tuning it will do. I've never heard of an engine being damaged because someone put pipes and a new intake on during break-in, and it will actually run cooler and last longer if it's tuned right, but that's just how I'd approach it.
To answer your first two questions, yes, it will need to be re-tuned. Letting it breathe better with the pipes and intake will create a leaner AFR, which means it will run hotter than it's designed to. Since we're just talking a stage 1 here, I wouldn't have the dealer tune it. Getting something like a Power Vision and reflashing the ECM should be sufficient.
Side question, when you say you have slight popping when acc/deacc, do you mean it's popping when you're rolling on the throttle too, not just on decel?
To answer your first two questions, yes, it will need to be re-tuned. Letting it breathe better with the pipes and intake will create a leaner AFR, which means it will run hotter than it's designed to. Since we're just talking a stage 1 here, I wouldn't have the dealer tune it. Getting something like a Power Vision and reflashing the ECM should be sufficient.
Side question, when you say you have slight popping when acc/deacc, do you mean it's popping when you're rolling on the throttle too, not just on decel?
#5
I'd let the engine break in more before you start messing with the air-fuel ratio, which tuning it will do. I've never heard of an engine being damaged because someone put pipes and a new intake on during break-in, and it will actually run cooler and last longer if it's tuned right, but that's just how I'd approach it.
To answer your first two questions, yes, it will need to be re-tuned. Letting it breathe better with the pipes and intake will create a leaner AFR, which means it will run hotter than it's designed to. Since we're just talking a stage 1 here, I wouldn't have the dealer tune it. Getting something like a Power Vision and reflashing the ECM should be sufficient.
Side question, when you say you have slight popping when acc/deacc, do you mean it's popping when you're rolling on the throttle too, not just on decel?
To answer your first two questions, yes, it will need to be re-tuned. Letting it breathe better with the pipes and intake will create a leaner AFR, which means it will run hotter than it's designed to. Since we're just talking a stage 1 here, I wouldn't have the dealer tune it. Getting something like a Power Vision and reflashing the ECM should be sufficient.
Side question, when you say you have slight popping when acc/deacc, do you mean it's popping when you're rolling on the throttle too, not just on decel?
On another note, went for a ride when i changed the slip-ons , and the bike seemed hot. Never been on a dyna, so not sure how hot they (my vrod would get warm, but not like this). Never noticed the heat when i was moving, but at the lights was quite warm. Was only mid 70's that day, hate to see when summer gets here.
Don't want to damage the bike, so if i need to re-install the oem pipes i can till later date. Thoughts?
As for the retune/heavy filter, will probably wait until i hit the 1000 mile mark that i need to take back to dealer for maintenance and have it done then. Using the dealer would be cheaper than buying an aftermarket tuner.
Thx
Last edited by sac130e; 11-08-2015 at 09:28 PM.
#6
You have two options to enrich the AFR if you want to cool your engine, maximize reduction in decel popping and improve the performance of your engine:
1. Purchase an SE or aftermarket tuner and remap the ECM
2. Purchase VIEDs
http://sales.nightrider.com/fl-vied-10.html
#7
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#8
Am worried alittle about the voiding warrenty issue, but will talk with my sales guy next time and get a feel on how they approach this.
I will hold off abit on the intake till i get somemore miles on it.
Thx
#9
Your Dyna should be significantly hotter than the V-rod. Remember it's an air-cooled engine. V-rods are liquid-cooled. If it pops when you're upshifting, but not when you're rolling on the throttle, then it sounds like it's just your shift technique. When you chop the the throttle, engine vacuum results in a very lean air-fuel mixture. There's not enough fuel in the mixture to fully combust the mixture in the cylinder, so unburned fuel gets into the exhaust, where the heat ignites it.
That's the popping, which itself won't hurt anything. A lot of people will tell you it's bad, but it won't cause any damage. Stock Harley engines tend to pop because the mixture's tuned lean from the factory to meet emissions regulations. A richer mixture is better for the bike and will give better power, and will lessen or eliminate the decel popping as a side effect.
That's the popping, which itself won't hurt anything. A lot of people will tell you it's bad, but it won't cause any damage. Stock Harley engines tend to pop because the mixture's tuned lean from the factory to meet emissions regulations. A richer mixture is better for the bike and will give better power, and will lessen or eliminate the decel popping as a side effect.
#10