I took it back yesterday and he sanded it out w/ 2K grit and rubbed it out. Looks much better, but I still want it to be better. I will work on it myself at this point. One thing I know, is that if you want it done right, do it yourself. He got the majority of it smooth. Just little areas near the corners that still need to be done. That would be hand work. Too tight for a buffing wheel. He told me that usually the buffing is an additional charge Not too sure about that. As far as I know the paint needs to be smooth no matter what is done. I guess this is a lesson learned. Thanks for all the input. I was thinking maybe I was asking too much of him. Guess not at this point.

 

Buffing is an additional charge? Isn't that like getting charged extra for toilet paper in a pay toilet?

 

Yah I wouldn't have been happy with that at all, and I really wouldnt have been happy if he told me I had to pay him to do a real good buff on it. If the stuff was prepped and painted properly none of buffing would have even needed to happen. He wants to charge to apply a bandaid to his bad painting.

 

Do not sand or buff through the clear on the edges or corners! Much easier said than done depending how many coats of clear he applied. My vote is sand near the edges but avoid the edges themselves.

 

No fu..ing around, sand it down and do it right!

 

Skin effect = inexperienced painter

 

just one question, did you take the tourpack by the hd dealer who recommended this guy in the first place to show them the 'quality' of the paint he does? i for sure wouldn't be sending any repair work his way if i were the service advisor for the hd shop......

 

Yup, that's really no better than I have done in my garage. A good painter can put it on pretty flat, and a pro can make it like glass.

If you keep on sanding, I would have them apply more clear, and have their good painter do it.

 

Spot on...