Ok, I took some pics of the calipers and brake line connectors. Let me know what you guys think from the pics, if I need to replace the flat rusted parts of the calipers (pistons?) or brake lines.

And as far as brake pads go, v-factor are a fifth of the price of HD pads, but are they any good? They are semi-metallic/non-asbestos but $10 brake pads can't be near the top of the line. Also looking at ERB and SRS, but don't need racing brakes, just the kind that stop well.

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/69605867@N07/6328964436/

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/69605867@N07/6328212157/

Heres a preliminary shot of the bike, keeping it totally stock, except for maybe switching out the handle bars for some 4" up straight bars.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/69605867@N07/6329071300

 

As much as I remember, all of my brake pads run the distance of the backing plate. What I don't see right off in your pick is any black attached to those metal mounting plates, & your Disc looks to be wearing oddly, like its being pulled to a stop by the backing/mounting plates. The piston(s) are what push those plates & pads into the disc. Don't sweat gettin some fancy expensive stuff until you're sure that's what ya need. Follow your repair manual its a couple of twists w/ the wrenches clean up the plates w/ a little fluid (doesn't have to be fancy but get it dry), & a green scrubby pad from the kitchen (again, it doesn't have ta be sterile, just, not somethin ya can file your nails w/, don't dig trenches--put a little piece of wood behind the scrubby & pressure evenly). Once ya've cleaned your bare metal put a light coat of oil on it, not heavy or wet, should feel dry/polished--shouldn't leave a mark on Mom's good napkins--okay.

If your master cylinders aren't leaking don't bother it till ya need to, ya ever heard the old sayin...about something bein so dirty & when cleaned...had so many problems?...

Leave the lines alone if there is no weak spots (wear through, rust, dents, dings, etc) or (rubber) crumbly/ so soft ya can pinch it through w/out any effort & lots of cracks & gotta go wash the hands after touchin it (you'll know it) fix these asap--fix those (no weak spots) later when there's more time & money.

If the disc has great big grooves in it that ya can tell were not manufactured into it, get a new one soon. If its a little rusty scrub it w/ a green scrubby & a small piece of wood backing the scrubby (don't use a lumpy loofa pad lookin kina thing) in even length/pressure strokes (best ya can counts here). If its a good thick plate maybe a machinist can surface sand it for ya, but, a good disc is fairly inexpensive at a junkyard/fleamarket.

Use your own hard earned common sense. Ya got it, now take it home.

ROCK-n-ROll

 

I would replace with new as much as I could afford to. I don't like to skimp on brakes. On my 90 I went with braided steel lines and new front master, the rear I left alone, but that is considering the bike was in use, not just sitting. You sure don't want to come to a quick stop and have something fail. Brake parts aren't that spendy and you'll have peace of mind. jmho.

 

I think it's more than just an opinion. The hydraulics are the heart of the brake system. Without roadworthy calipers and cylinders the best pads and rotors in the world aren't worth a damn. I am totally serious about the fluid too. if your seals swell or otherwise F up because incompatible fluids it could be a disaster. Brakes are one area where you don't want to cut corners.

 

Will begin disassembly/cleaning of front calipers and rotors tomorrow. Dual front brakes so could be a lot for my first time changing out the brakes.

I picked up the HD brand break pads since they have a store in town. $135 for both fronts and one rear is probably ridiculous but it'll be for a while.

I figure ill do the fronts first, then if they work ill do the rear. Don't need to kill myself first time out.
Thanks guys.

 

If you run into any problems, don't be shy about posting, that's the beauty of forums like this. Instant advice from people who have done this stuff before. There is another online forum strictly for XLs, they have lots of knowledge over there too.

 

Okay, okay...good. I know of people that run front only because of the drag & torsion factor at the rear wheel--keeps them very aware of what/when they're doin it.

Rock-n-Roll

 

I recently switched to DOT5. I completely drained my system. Pulled the piston and wiped the old brake fluid out of the reservoir. Added the DOT5. Pumped the brake pedal until I got purple fluid squirting out the bleed hole. Then bled the brakes like any other brake system. Clear tubing connected to the bleed screw, running into a collection bottle to prevent siphoning back the air bubbles. Pump the brakes till no more bubbles come out.

I do have a question. I didn't "FLUSH" the system between fluids (old DOT ? to new DOT 5). Did I screw up? Will I be OK?

 

There is a real problem with mixing DOT fluids. For reasons best known to the DOT, DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1 fluids are compatible with each other. DOT5 is most definitely not compatible with any of them! Over time (and I have first hand experience of this) there is a risk the DOT5 will react with traces of whatever was in there before and produce a jello-like substance, which can be corrosive and is most undesirable!

If say your reservoir caps recommend DOT3 (which Harleys used before DOT5) you really should have stayed with that or DOT4. The rubber seals are said to be different in DOT5 bikes, although they never gave me problems when I mixed fluids. I continue to use DOT5 in one bike and DOT4 in my later bikes, as per recommendations for each bike.

I wouldn't be happy, with my experience, using a cocktail of fluids. I suggest you strip and clean the entire system, to remove all traces of old fluid. You may be fine, possibly for several years, but there is a risk of serious corrosion inside your braking system. My master cylinders and calipers became so corroded I replaced the entire braking system with new. That ain't cheap!