Hey Howard!
Just got a set of Lyndall gold rear pads, and was reading the break-in procedure. Am I reading this right.... You dont allow the pads to cool down between these 20 stops, then after the 20th, you allow them to cool to ambient temp?

Thanks in advance....Ben.

 

My bed-in procedure You may call Paul @ Lyndall if this procedure I use does not suit you.

This is what I do: [ol][*]Pull 10 stops on a safe area, low traffic straight street or parking lot. For a stock SS HD rotor, try 30 or so mph down to 10 mph using moderate braking pressure. Do not stop or drag your pads during these stops.[*]Do a few 50 or so mph down to 10 mph using moderate braking pressure.[*]A de-gassing action occurs and it produces an ordor during this time. After a 30 min. cool down you are done breaking in the pads & the ordor should go away.[*]Full seating should occur within the first 1,000 miles.[/ol]NOTE* Due to the adherent (ability to stick firmly to a surface or an object) temperature of these pads used on different rotors, no “One Size Fits All” solution exists. [ul][*]For a stock Stainless rotor & Gold pads, the temperature range is between 100°F-600°F.[*]Better rotors require 600°F-1400°F. This means Metal Matrix Composite and iron, each bed-in needs to be application-specific. [/ul]What you are accomplishing; This bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer , on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. I say even layer. Uneven transfer layer is the #1 reason for a pulsating rotor making you think you have a warped rotor. The more the pads hit the high spots, the more it heats them up and the metal in those spots become hard spots and are impossible to remove.


Check your new, used, or pre-owned rotor while you are there changing pads. Rotors should also be checked for excessive run-out using a; 1)- dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. 2)- If you are not tool rich, use a paint can & put a screwdriver so it just about touches the rotor & use it as a reference point. It is better than nothing and you can see 4 thousandths. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" it should be replaced.

My two coppers

 

Thanks Howard. I'll use your procedure.
The neighbors are gona think I've gone right over the edge this time !

Cheers... Ben.