Question, I was starting to get thematerials for setting up my 07 wideglide with dual disk up front to improve my braking and advised to that just improving my pads, brake lines and possibly rotors would be better and alot easier.

My original thought was to get fork lowers from a V-rod (49mm also but have the built in portion for brakes) and start from there. Anyone have experience doing this?

Dave

 

The 49mm front ends on the dyna and the v-rod are the same. All the parts interchange.

I'm not a huge fan of dual disc brakes. They add complexity, cost, and unsprung weight. I think you're much better off by improving the stock parts. Start with better pads. Be sure to resurface the rotor and bed the new pads in properly. If you don't do those two things, there's a good chance your braking will be worse than before.

If that's not enough, then step up to a better caliper and matching M/C. Brembo makes excellent components. If you have a factory alum wheel on your dyna (not spokes) the v-rod part is a bolt on. The line connection is slightly differant, so that would be a good time to add braided lines.

If you still need more, use a set of 6 piston caliper from PM or HawgHalters. I heard a rumor that Wilwood also makes a good caliper, but I'm not sure about that.

 

The V-Rod lower forks are not the same as a Dyna. To start with, the bolt to hold on a Dyna is 12mm & the V-Rod is 6mm. The length si also 2" shorter than a Dyna but I do not think that is a problem. Bottom line, you can not bolt up a V-Rod directly to a Dyna Flute.

If you wish to directly bolt up a V-Rod whole front end, the internal parts are different (values) so the ride would not be desirable and the fork tubes are 2" shorter also. Neither good options. I am in the middle of making a viable front end to put duel disk brakes on a 06> Dyna & I bought both front ends to check myself. As far as putting duel disks on a front end, that depends what you are going to do with it. There is a misnomer that just by adding a disk & a caliper your braking distance will greatly be shortened. That depends on what type of rotor, pad, & rotor you are using.

The reason why a second disk is used if for the dissipation of heat only not the added pad area! If you go around twisties with a fully ladened bagger weighing 1,535 lbs (885 for an Ultra, 300 lb rider & 200 lb passenger, + 150 gear) what do you think will happen when you only have 1 rotor? These are real #'s, maybe not yours but you get the idea.

Bottom line is the standard single disk brake is just fine for a once stop at 40-60 mph. The problems lie when you wish to stop more than one in a succession of stops. I hope this helps you and your decision.

[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/5ABAC8731B1A4068B41771B1E364ADAA.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/A09FA2B8DA834F64B169EE82B9125894.jpg[/IMG]

 

Sounds like the single sided upgrades are probably easier and will do what I need. Asa rule my brakes aren't over used doing alot of twisties (not that I won't mind trying them, just at slower speeds since I'm probably only an average rider) I wanted the shorter stopping distances.

Not to start a great debate but I see alot of folks here speak highly of Lyndell pads and of course brembos speak highly for themselves since the sport bikes usually have one of their set ups, which way would my money be better spent since for pads it's about the same?

Thanks for you inputs and experience.
Dave

 

What Howard said...and you'll be keeping that skinny 21" front wheel? Dual discs is a lot on that tire...a good quality single disc/pad/brake line combo will serve you well.

[IMG]local://upfiles/32069/D7453B5E72B14A0EBE995CF5A348E393.jpg[/IMG]

 

A lyndall lightweight rotor w/ their pads and a braideds/s line willnot only enhance braking,but ride and handling as well.Want more,install a custom cycle engineering fork brace.