Never seem all the junk ideas in that fork but my guess it did not workout as planed
Billy pictured what is in a fork from the motor company — and a kit is available with the bushings as well - i would go back to what is supposed to be in it not the other guys idea of how it should work
Never seem all the junk ideas in that fork but my guess it did not workout as planed
Billy pictured what is in a fork from the motor company — and a kit is available with the bushings as well - i would go back to what is supposed to be in it not the other guys idea of how it should work
Makes sense, about the only manuals I don't have are for the FXRs so I couldn't say for sure but thanks for chiming in John..
Try the link below for the image CoolBreeze3636 posted above, but this view should provide part numbers with names. At the vear least, you should replace the bushing on the tubes, they look well worn. On removing the tubes, when I have one that is stuck like you describe, I put some Kroil oil on them at the trees and let it sit a couple of days and try again. But still use the screw driver method to spread the lower tree to help prevent scratching the tubes and hopefully make it easier to remove the tubes.
This does replace the factory service manual. I'd look for more places online even of you end up paying more because it is invaluable at times like this. You will need specific torque values when reassembling this or you could do more damage than good.
John is telling you that you have some sort of aftermarket or home made setup, which is why the manual is not matching up to what you have. I assumed your bike was different because it was older than mine, but 1987 to 1991 you would think should be the same. Maybe that bike had air suspension?!?! Not sure, I know the FL's had an air reservoir system for some years, did the FXR have an air or adjustable setup?
But going back to stock would save you some guessing, good luck.
Thanks again for the replies - often times it helps just to know I am not alone. And I struggle onward. From what I can determine this model of Showa forks were used in 84-84 Sportsters - so they are not stock to this bike. Looking at the HD parts drawings for those Sportster models has not helped though - I don't find these (extra) parts anywhere. Prior owner (my brother) told me the bike is retired LAPD bike and was then owned by a gang member and has been modified all along so I will likely never know the full story. Parts are probably classified and secret. The tubes are still firmly stuck in the triple tree and I will re-assemble like that. No desire to go cave man any more than is absolutely needed. On the dis-assembly I never knew that this would be anything special so I didn't pay as much attention to the parts coming out of the tubes as I should have (that was one mistake). The right tube still has the short "collar" piece up inside and so I am assuming that's where it goes. The other pieces will go back together with that but the "fluted" piece and wavy washer could go in there either "flutes up" or "flutes down" and I don't think it will make a great difference either way but it makes sense that the shape be exposed to hydraulic action as the fork compresses/rebounds and forces oil through there - damping action. So, I will assume the flutes should be leading (flutes down) as fork tube is pushed through the surge of hydraulic pressure would be dissipated through a larger surface area. With that being said - here is how I plan to re-assemble.
Showa ID from inside lower fork leg. Google search refers back to 84-85 Sportster model.
Looking up inside fork tube can see short collar.
Stack of parts on damper tube. Short collar will seat up inside tube, wavy washer and fluted piece will sit inside of that. and long sleeve will hold in place with maybe 1/16" of play.
Full damper tube addembly. Set screw threads into both fork tube and long sleeve and will tighten without protruding on inside. When assembled and damper tube is pushed up I can insert my small finger and determine there is some but very little play above long sleeve.
All stuffed in there. Ready to give final cleaning and assemble. Hopefully will never see these parts again.
I think you're on the right track because I did see in the tube where to set screw goes to secure the stop out. I also believe that the crowned spacer goes down onto the stop like you said to allow for fluid to come up but look for witness marks on the wave washer to go between the stop and the crowned spacer.. As for the last piece that looks like a cup to support the bottom of the spring so turn that around and I think you'll be good..
07-06-2024, 07:59 AM
