This is a cross post from the touring section.

So I'm upgrading to black lower legs and I pulled the front end apart today. Pulled the cap off the left fork, slid the leg down in the trees, like always, and pulled the plug. No problems. Rebuilt the leg and put on the new black slider and reinstalled all in about half a beer and 45 minutes.

Here's where it all goes wrong

Obvious next step, repeat on the right side, right? Not a snowball's chance in hell! I got that plug to turn about 1 thread, with some major force I might add, and not a millimeter more. I tried penetrating oil, heat, even pulling it off and putting it into a homemade vice clamp that has worked before. I can force it back on, but it seems to hang at the same place trying to remove it. thing is, these legs have never been off the bike (2013 FLHTCU). Last resort will be take it in and let the shop try.

Now, at the risk of sounding like a dick, I know how to use trees to remove the plug, I know external vise clamps don't always hold, I've seen removal videos for forks. I've removed, disassembled, rebuilt, and reinstalled forks many times, but thank you.

Anyone experienced this phenomenon and come to a resolution?
thanks,

 

I assume you loosened the top pinch bolt first?

 

At the risk of sounding like a dick, you could describe the issue a little better. What's stuck? The top fork bolt? Or the cap on the fork tube? The damping rod bolt? When you say you can back it out one thread does that mean you can move the whatever you are loosening about 1 full turn and it sticks?

 

Wow, my apologies, I didn’t realize that not everyone is aware of the terminologies of the parts that make up the forks.
Ok, on a touring model 2009-20013, there is a cap on top of the fork (this holds the fluid in the top, and holds the top of the fork leg on the bike, no pinch bolt on top tree), this screws into the plug (this holds the spring in and under tension), which screws into the top of the fork tube (or top of the fork leg if you prefer). Now, this plug has been loosened approximately 1-1.5 threads (the circular cut in the metal that each piece attaches into) and Is siezed up and will move no more.
Really thought that the first paragraph of the original post laid it out pretty clearly

 

Thanks, but touring models don’t have top pinch bolts.

 

Definitely not aware of your terminologies. I've always call the top part that holds the springs the fork cap. The fork plug was the fork oil drain plug. But then, the SM calls it a fork tube plug. PM only calls it a fork bolt.. OK so what what I call a cap you call a plug..

You are saying that you try to unscrew it 1 to 1 1/2 turns (threads are not showing) and it sticks. I assume however you are holding the tube, you are not squashing it.. Penetrating oil will not get past the O ring.. You could turn the fork upside down to lubricate the threads and go back to working the cap/plug back and forth. It should unscrew. If it sticks, you might be screwed.. You might need to hold the tube better and with large crescent, beat on the crescent with a soft hammer.. Other option is to buy a special socket that fits the top and rattle it off with an impact wrench. Don't know if you'll be able to save the tube.. Threads are 1.5mm pitch by some odd size like 35.5 mm..

 

Nope, I’m screwed, I spent over 4 hours on it yesterday, already did everything you suggested and I’m gonna cut the tube to get to the guts and throw tube and plug away. Even if I ever get it off it’ll be toast. Must be a burr or something in the threads buggering it up.
Thanks for the suggestions, but it’s time to get midieval on this bitch!

 

I would put a long piece of pipe on the end of the crescent for leverage before cutting the tube. That's how I got mine off. Anyone know the torque spec for the 6mm allen nut that holds the damper tube to the slider?

 

132-216 INCH pounds on my 2013 FLHTCU

 

Thanks.