Flimsy front brake lever even after caliper rebuild and fluid flush
#1
Flimsy front brake lever even after caliper rebuild and fluid flush
So about a week ago I pretty much lost all stopping power in the front brake. It happened over the course of 2 or three days. in other words, day 1 had full stopping power which btw was never that great to begin with, then by day 3 I had a completely flimsy (zero tension) lever.
I rebuilt the front caliper, no leaks. When changing the brake fluid, the lever handle went from 100% flimsy only to very slight tension but nowhere close enough to stop a bike. This took the course of an hour and an entire 11oz bottle of (DOT 5) brake fluid. Some air did come out but by the end was only new fluid).
No leaks anywhere, just pumping the lever to no avail.
I rebuilt the front caliper, no leaks. When changing the brake fluid, the lever handle went from 100% flimsy only to very slight tension but nowhere close enough to stop a bike. This took the course of an hour and an entire 11oz bottle of (DOT 5) brake fluid. Some air did come out but by the end was only new fluid).
No leaks anywhere, just pumping the lever to no avail.
#3
You still have air or the master is worn out. Ever 3 rd set of pads should get new caliper and master. Rebuild only if the master cylinder is not worn (unless it comes like the older ones with a piston and cylinder) and the caliper is not pitted and piston looks good. Be sure when you get air out you have bars turned so master is level. Then pump slowly with cap loose till the lever is almost closed. Do not let up till bleeder is snugged. (not tight but snug with the box wrench on it with a finger tug) If you are vacuum pumping to bleed, go slow and only 5-10 LB vacuum. Master piston exerts tremendous one way. Easy to pull air the other way into master.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 03-11-2019 at 04:06 PM.
#4
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