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Front fork rebuild Cost

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  #1  
Old 12-03-2018 | 03:44 PM
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Default Front fork rebuild Cost

Looking at the maintenance requirements and see that the front forks should be rebuilt at 50,000 miles. I currently have 46,475 miles on my forks, but am getting ready to go to Alaska next summer. So I want them rebuilt during the off season.
I removed both fork tubes and plan to take them in to the dealer. Has anyone had it done and what "should" it cost me to get both rebuilt, new fluid??

2015 Limited
 
  #2  
Old 12-04-2018 | 09:24 AM
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I haven't had this type of work done, but I am able to take a guess
According to HD Job times, I see:
1. Service or replace fork slider and/or seal – includes both sides removal, disassembly, cleaning, inspection, replacing parts, servicing damper tube, replacing bushings, assembly and installation = 2.9 hours
2. Replace fork side, both sides = 1.5 hours

So based upon you removing both fork tubes, it should be about 1.4 hours of labor, plus parts, shop charges, disposal fee, convenience fee (remember all this is just a guess)
 

Last edited by LQQK_OUT; 12-04-2018 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 12-04-2018 | 09:44 AM
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Default Exactly what I needed

Perfect, that was what I was looking for. So the two rebuild kits are about $35 each X 2 and 1.4 hours at $100 an hour gives me about $210 plus shop supplies. .

The parts would be a wash so $140 labor vice my labor of nothing.

I appreciate the response.
 
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Old 12-04-2018 | 11:14 AM
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You did most of the work, why don’t you finish the job? About $100-125 in parts and fluids.
 
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Old 12-04-2018 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lude-a-tick
You did most of the work, why don’t you finish the job? About $100-125 in parts and fluids.
I am still trying to decide whether to attempt to do it. I am looking at buying a 12 mm long impact allen wrench and a way to insert the oil seal into the forks. I saw one guy who used tape wrapped around a the fork slider to insert the seal, another guy used a piece of 2" PVC but it needed some mods, and another guy used an aluminum 2" pipe, but each is a compromise. I have not looked at the seal yet but believe it is tapered which means the tool needs to not hit the leading edge, but the outside of the seal. Anyway, I am still doing my research and may attempt the job, but I just am not sure. I would hate to spend money to buy the seals, allen wrench and an insertion tool, and then screw it up. Time will tell.

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Old 12-04-2018 | 06:31 PM
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If you went to the trouble of pulling all that off, you can rebuild them. Need an impact to break that lower bolt up thru there. Be interested in what those bearing sleeves look like. Mine has 50K on it. I can tell no difference from new. And if it is not filming the slider to the point of making a drip, not sure why you pulled it down. Those sleeves run in that oil and rarely wear.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 12-04-2018 at 06:32 PM.
  #7  
Old 12-04-2018 | 09:25 PM
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I wouldn't be shocked that the dampener bolt comes out with a standard allen wrench. I've done several rebuilds and haven't had an issue removing yet. As for seating seal, spilt a piece of 2" PVC and gentlely tap seal in place using one of the old dampener washers to protect seal. When you completely disassemble be sure to clean all parts prior to re-assembly. I use Amsoil Shock Therapy #10 measured to amount listed for the particlular bike. Have confidence you can do it!
 
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Old 12-04-2018 | 09:36 PM
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You might want to consider upgrading to something like a Progressive. When I had my forks changed for chrome I had Progressive springs installed. They made a huge handling and ride improvement.
 
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Old 12-05-2018 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
If you went to the trouble of pulling all that off, you can rebuild them. Need an impact to break that lower bolt up thru there.
I have an impact wrench but don't have the correct size long allen socket to do the job. I am working on this. The seal driver is not a show stopper as I have watched so many other ways to insert the seal.


Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Be interested in what those bearing sleeves look like. Mine has 50K on it. I can tell no difference from new. And if it is not filming the slider to the point of making a drip, not sure why you pulled it down. Those sleeves run in that oil and rarely wear.
Sounds like we are both about is the same spot. My fork seals are perfect also. No leaks no film on tube. But, as I said before somewhere, if I was only riding locally or one day trips, I would not worry about it. However, I am planning a 11,688 mile trip to some of the most remote areas of North America next summer, and given that the maintenance manual calls for a rebuild at 50K miles, I just thought it would be a good time to have the work done.

As I have been taught, PPPPPPP, or something like that.
 
  #10  
Old 12-05-2018 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
You might want to consider upgrading to something like a Progressive. When I had my forks changed for chrome I had Progressive springs installed. They made a huge handling and ride improvement.
I love the looks of the chrome forks, I can't justify the cost to have it done. As far as adding Progressive springs, I have no issue with the stock suspension, and see no reason to change what I have. I like to have the front forks absorb bumps in the road, and mine do that. I do bottom out on my rear shocks at times, so plan to change the oil in them.
.
 



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