Just thinking of porting heads Only
#2
cylinder heads make the power and the cam dictates where the power will be in the rpm band. If you are wanting more power this should be the first step. The recipie for more power is: head work, cams, compression and work on the induction system and then have it tuned by a reputable tuner. anymore questions just ask. dsv
#3
cylinder heads make the power and the cam dictates where the power will be in the rpm band. If you are wanting more power this should be the first step. The recipie for more power is: head work, cams, compression and work on the induction system and then have it tuned by a reputable tuner. anymore questions just ask. dsv
#7
Head porting on a stock engine is starting from the wrong place! In very simple terms, a change of cams will give an improvement in performance over stock; a boost in compression plus better cams will give a further boost; but ported heads, increased CR and yet better cams will give yet more performance.
If you chose to change CR, most if not all tuners will encourage you to go to a 95" set-up, so you get an extra benefit from more cubic inches - and so the roundabout continues! Far better to call a tuning shop and talk things through with them. They can describe what changes will best match what you want to achieve to meet your budget.
Be warned that tuning your bike can develop into a drug and you may find yourself wanting even more performance before long!
If you chose to change CR, most if not all tuners will encourage you to go to a 95" set-up, so you get an extra benefit from more cubic inches - and so the roundabout continues! Far better to call a tuning shop and talk things through with them. They can describe what changes will best match what you want to achieve to meet your budget.
Be warned that tuning your bike can develop into a drug and you may find yourself wanting even more performance before long!
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#8
At least the proper cam to match the head work, minimum IMO. The 21 is very popular among the torque guys, and the 26 does the same thing ( and a little more,) with the 95" Big Bore kit.
The reason that I like my motor so much is that the build is simple and relatively inexpensive. My 95" Stage II came that way from the factory but all the parts are readily available to anyone who wants to bump their 88" 's power by close to 30%.
Big Bore, those 26 cams, high flow air cleaner, and a download/tuner. And the Stage II doesn't even call for head work. I like it simple. Consider it.
The reason that I like my motor so much is that the build is simple and relatively inexpensive. My 95" Stage II came that way from the factory but all the parts are readily available to anyone who wants to bump their 88" 's power by close to 30%.
Big Bore, those 26 cams, high flow air cleaner, and a download/tuner. And the Stage II doesn't even call for head work. I like it simple. Consider it.
#9
At least the proper cam to match the head work, minimum IMO. The 21 is very popular among the torque guys, and the 26 does the same thing ( and a little more,) with the 95" Big Bore kit.
The reason that I like my motor so much is that the build is simple and relatively inexpensive. My 95" Stage II came that way from the factory but all the parts are readily available to anyone who wants to bump their 88" 's power by close to 30%.
Big Bore, those 26 cams, high flow air cleaner, and a download/tuner. And the Stage II doesn't even call for head work. I like it simple. Consider it.
The reason that I like my motor so much is that the build is simple and relatively inexpensive. My 95" Stage II came that way from the factory but all the parts are readily available to anyone who wants to bump their 88" 's power by close to 30%.
Big Bore, those 26 cams, high flow air cleaner, and a download/tuner. And the Stage II doesn't even call for head work. I like it simple. Consider it.
Last edited by Iron lHorse; 11-30-2013 at 07:13 AM.
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