In a few weeks I am going to rebuild the top end and put the new cam plate
part 25284-11 in the bike. First time doing this for me.
The bike is a '00 FLHRCI has about 116000 miles on it.
I have a set of ported heads from a '04 Electra Glide same part # as mine
98" cylinders with CP pistons and Woods 6 cams
And a HPI throttle body and a power commander
I would like some input from anybody who has done this before about any problems I might run into and maybe some
short cuts in doing this
Thanks

 

I have not done this myself but doing my homework - the Fuel Moto and S&S install videos on You Tube are excellent.

 

Thanks Alan, I'm half way competent with a wrench and figure with the manual and the laptop I should be good to go. But a little advise is always welcomed.

 

No issues with the 04 springs accommodating the .510" lift of the W6 but if the cams are the W6H, you could have issues. Of course, you are changing the outer cam bearings and replacing the inner cam bearings with Torrington B148s. If you don't have the inner cam bearing R/R tools, you can pick up a blind hole puller from Auto Zone, just get the right size collet. You can install the cams with an old cam shaft, install them numbers facing out and check them with your finger after installation to make sure the rollers are free. Sometimes they can get pushed a bit off center and into a bind.

Do you know the chamber volume of the ported heads? You should know so you can calculate CCP and corrected CR just to be on the safe side that cams and compression are compatible.

Really not short cut bug Google the "oven/freezer" method for installing outer cam bearings on cams and cams into cam plate. Much easier, for me anyway, to install pistons into cylinders and drop cylinders on the studs, insert pin and locks. Get four 1/2" PVC couplings to use to hold the cylinders in place once you get them installed; check the photo.



Assume you are changing lifters but with what? And adjustable push rods?? Wash the cylinders in hot soapy water; they aren't clean until you can wipe the wall with a white cloth and not see anything but white. There will be plenty of machine grit in the cross hatch grooves. Immediately after washing a liberal coating of WD40 should be applied; the ductile iron cylinder liner will start to rust before your eyes.

Use lots of assembly lube except on the rings; use oil there.

You have the service manual; read it a few times before you get started, take your time, check your work and be sure you have finished on step before starting another.

Probably not necessary but I check squish and piston to valve clearance on every top end I put together mostly for reference for future top end modifications.

Good luck!

 

Great advice DJL.

 

Thanks for the insight djl, I have adjustable pushrods already installed.
The cams are the 6, although I had the heavier springs installed in the heads, per advise from the head shop. Dan Vance Racing did the bore with the pistons and recommended the Woods 6, he also said I could use stock lifters,which I have. I don't run the bike real hard but figured since I'll be doing a rebuild might as well go for a little extra power. Thanks again

 

Service manual should be able to take you home.
We've used that 6 cam probably over 100 times here in various builds from 80" Evo's(86 hp and 94 ft/lbs on Rosa's Cycle dyno, Long Island, N.Y.) to 117" T/C's(119.5 hp and 136 ft/lbs on HP Express's dyno, San Fran Bay area) and all points in between.
Good cam, bike should run well.
Scott