installed se stage 1 breather,se race tuner,and v&h short shots staggered. what can I do for the decel pop? I love the sound of these pipes but the pop I can do without . would appreciate any help . they are on a 103 .

 

Just installed a set of Vance and Hines straight shots slip on's on my 13 Heritage. A little decal pop also. I believe that the pipes I have are more a cylindrical type baffle instead of an hour glass shape type. So it's more open. This means lot's of air, little restriction. Your's are the same. So it's easier for the unburnt fuel heading into your exhaust to mix with all that air causing the decel pop. So what can you do? Well, change to a pipe with more baffle. A good tuner could, I say again, could or may be able to tune it out.

 

Thanks h blue. I'm gonna try the quiet baffle. & maybe a set of torque cones. Mines a classic also. Love it. I may for out my stock pipes & re map on my screaming eagle race tuner..... Any one else? Thanks man. Chris.

 

The shorter the pipes the harder they are to tune out decel pop. Changing baffles can help. I'm partial to the BCT's, but whatever works for you. If none of that helps, find someone who knows how to really tweak your tuner.

 

You have the solution; the SERT. Quiet baffles, torque cones, etc. will not eliminate the decal pop and neither will a "map". Assuming you have not intake or exhaust leaks and you are happy with the exhaust note; get her on a dyno and in the hands of a competent tuner. The motor will run smoother and cooler and fuel economy might even improve.

 

Thanks djl. I'll inspect my plugs for burn properties. And check intake & exhaust for leaks as well. Any other input would be helpful,as I'm trying to watch my $$$$ .

 

If you were watching your $$$, you should have left her stock. You did the Stage I upgrade which is the cheapest performance on a $$/HP basis available; big bore kits, cams, headwork, etc. upgrades become exponentially more costly on that basis. You invested the money in the SERT which was a wise investment, now take full advantage of the SERT and get the motor a proper tune. You just spent $17K on a motorcycle, so what's another $300 to tune that motor to a better, cooler running motor that will deliver all that you should get from a Stage I upgrade.

I continue to be amazed by owners that spend thousands of dollars on a motorcycle but choke on $300 to optimize the performance. Good luck.

 

was just asking, at least im not one to put thousands of dollars in bling to polish up instead of riding. the mech that normally does the tunes was not in. ill request he tune it again & dyno it this time. stock catalyst exhaust? no. i have already noticed the heat has diminished without the suffocation pipes. if i go stock ill gut out the stockers. thanks to all as im a newbie to these computer bikes.

 

Make sure your tuner is actually "tuning". Some tuners load a map and tweak it a bit, not a proper tune. A proper tune should take several hours and may take as many as 30-40 pulls to get it just right. If your guy is not putting in that kind of effort, find another tuner. I would find one anyway; you shouldn't have to be going back for a redo since you paid for a tune already.

Keep the short shots if you like them; a good tune is what you need and you have the tool to do it; just need a good tuner.

 

I did not realize that. It didn't take that long. They didn't dyno the bike which I opted as they said they could get a close afr. As far as timing I'm not sure. Maybe I should find some one who wants to spend the time. My dealer should realize& care that my machine runs properly. I did spend a lot of $$$ there. Thanks again everyone.