Flh with a striped drain plug. Pulled the oil pan tried cleanig the threads up 1/2 inch fine thread wont hold whats the next size 9/16 will there be room around the pancasting to be able to put a wqrench on it. Anybody evere fix one?

 

When I stripped the oil drain on my outboard, I used a helicoil insert and the same plug and never had a problem after that.

Ron

 

Stop by your local auto parts store, and grab an oversize drain plug.
Scott

 

A follow on to Scott; here is what you are looking for.



On the left is a 1/2"-20 Double oversize plug
Middle is a 1/2"-20 "Piggyback Single Oversized" Plug
On the right is a 1/2"-20 Single oversized solid tapered plug

Forget the one on left unless the thread boss is really FUBAR.

The center is a good repair since once installed you don't have to remove the large plug to drain the oil. The problem is the oring that seals the "piggy back" plug will squish out under torque and will leak. You can remove that oring and replace it with a 10mm brake banjo washer that has the rubber face on both sides.

The one on the right will work fine. It will cut its own threads but since you have the pan off, you can clean any cuttings before reinstalling the pan. Start it straight and use a good cutting oil.

 

oversized drain plug made just for that at NAPA, even has tapered threads and "O" ring. Works as a self tapper, just gotta go slow as to not get threads pushed into pan.

 

And people think it is funny I torque all my drain plugs might me why at 91K plus mine and my customers have no problem sealing and are not stripped. A torque wrench is a bike owners best friend. I torque just about everything when I work on a bike. Yes it takes time but I know the job is done right!

 

I will say the oil drain plug is one of the things I don't torque, I normally torque everything in sight and have 5 different torque wrenches. The oil drain plug has always made me nervous so I just snug it, never a leak and never comes loose. I know my snug is well under the suggested torque value. I've read the threads where someone used their torque wrench set at the high end of the suggested torque and pulled the threads, I'm not looking to be in the same company as the OP.

 

That is why I set my torque wrench on the lower side on the drain plug. Some need to use a torque wrench as they are to heave handed case in point this tread. I seen people where they tighten spark plugs way to much and wonder why they go to leaking as they have dug a grove in the the head where the plug seats. I have customers that come to me as they know I torque most everything.

 

I don't torque anything except head bolts. The combination of steel fasteners in aluminum threads is not designed to hold up to repeated tightening. Sticking to the low end of the torque range is the way to extend the life of the aluminum threads. This really only applies to the DIY guys that are changing cams, getting into the primary, etc. Tightening to the high end of the torque range loads the aluminum threads every time and, if repeated often enough; the threads will fail.

Anyone that works on these TCs regularly should have a stock of helicoils in the most common thread size and depth.

 

Unless you're absolutely certain of the accuracy of your torque wrench, use the center specification. If your wrench is in error high or low you're covered.