Lets Talk Cams?
#1
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, I hope some one will chime in on this topic, first of all, this is for a freind of mine who has a duece, 2005 model and is carbed, he is wanting to put in a gear drive set of cams that will hit a good thump, he has been told that a set of the S&S 570g's will work great, the lift on that cam is also 570, I was thinking that it was to much lift for stock springs, if you know chime in. ![Smile](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Also the bike is stock and will stay that way on the bore anyway's.
Thanks.
![Smile](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Also the bike is stock and will stay that way on the bore anyway's.
Thanks.
#2
#4
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK,
I am chiming in,
I had the S&S cam gear drive installed and a set of Andrews TW-37G's put in also. I love the cams and their performance on the bike. Geat low end, fantastic mid range till rev limiter. I am so pleased with the performance that I have put off the 98 C. I. and head work upgrade that I had planned. I cannot say enoug habout how the cams have improved the bike.
I have not had the compression raised, as some say is needed. No head work as some say is needed. Did not go to a 95 C.I. upgrade, as some say is needed. Cams have .51 lift.
I have only these mod's:
Stock 88 C, I. displacement.
SE Stage 1 AC
Dynojetted stock CV carb
SuperTrapp SuperMegs 2:1 exhaust.
Dyno run was just a raw run, no tuning at all.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20717/C67AEC3B615B4F71A6E3455FAEAA4391.jpg[/IMG]
I am chiming in,
I had the S&S cam gear drive installed and a set of Andrews TW-37G's put in also. I love the cams and their performance on the bike. Geat low end, fantastic mid range till rev limiter. I am so pleased with the performance that I have put off the 98 C. I. and head work upgrade that I had planned. I cannot say enoug habout how the cams have improved the bike.
I have not had the compression raised, as some say is needed. No head work as some say is needed. Did not go to a 95 C.I. upgrade, as some say is needed. Cams have .51 lift.
I have only these mod's:
Stock 88 C, I. displacement.
SE Stage 1 AC
Dynojetted stock CV carb
SuperTrapp SuperMegs 2:1 exhaust.
Dyno run was just a raw run, no tuning at all.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20717/C67AEC3B615B4F71A6E3455FAEAA4391.jpg[/IMG]
#5
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Buttman, I am also going to be putting in 37G cams in my Deluxe. I don't plan on headwork or 95" (not yet) but I am running a Mikuni 45 carb, SE TB, Zippers AC, Thunderheaders for exhaust and 3.37 gearing. With this combo do you think I can realistically get 90/90? I am also installing a +4* advance key on the cam to get the 37's to come on sooner. I am curious because I think your #'s look great for what you've done.
#6
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think your 4 degree advance key will essentially give you a compression boost, which will help your HP.
However, I am leary of the 45mm Mikuni with only 88 C.I. and stock heads. I think possibly this might hurt your low to mid range and not come on in time to help the HP and Torque numbers.
My plan is to eventually go to a 98 C.I., headwork, and bigger carb. The shop recommends the 45 Mik after all of this is done. Comments in this forum have some stating a 45 is not needed until a 103 C.I., or bigger motor.
Good atomization is my worry with your current setup.
I tuned my CV after the dyno run Air/Fuel Ratio chart showed a lean condition all across the rev range. 13 is the ideal. After upping the slow and main jet one step, my bike rockets compared to the old jetting.
So possibly, assuming your jetting is optimal, you stand a chance of 90/90, but a 42 Mik might be the better ticket. Since you have ridden the 45 Mik, you should have a better handle on it's capabilities with the 88 C.I. I would go to an ignition module with a 6,200 RPM limit to give that 45 a chance to catch hold.
However, I am leary of the 45mm Mikuni with only 88 C.I. and stock heads. I think possibly this might hurt your low to mid range and not come on in time to help the HP and Torque numbers.
My plan is to eventually go to a 98 C.I., headwork, and bigger carb. The shop recommends the 45 Mik after all of this is done. Comments in this forum have some stating a 45 is not needed until a 103 C.I., or bigger motor.
Good atomization is my worry with your current setup.
I tuned my CV after the dyno run Air/Fuel Ratio chart showed a lean condition all across the rev range. 13 is the ideal. After upping the slow and main jet one step, my bike rockets compared to the old jetting.
So possibly, assuming your jetting is optimal, you stand a chance of 90/90, but a 42 Mik might be the better ticket. Since you have ridden the 45 Mik, you should have a better handle on it's capabilities with the 88 C.I. I would go to an ignition module with a 6,200 RPM limit to give that 45 a chance to catch hold.
#7
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
See my post " Hippo" I started a build to day using 570S&S. Stock springs will not work and pistons reliefs will need to be enlarged as well as rocker boxes may need releaving. The build I am doing should pull90/90 to 100 done right. With out10:1 570 to soft on the bottom. Needs BB and some form compression
Trending Topics
#8
#9
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LOL The lumpy idle he wants comes from an agressive cam and an agressive cam is not going to be a bolt on with nothing else done. Not to say that a lower lift, duration cam will not sound differant but that " caming" sound you talk about comes at a price. $2400 for my build including tools with me doing all the work. There are a world of cams that will give him a decent bump in ump that will bolt in with nothing else but he needs to decide right now what he wants. It is much cheaper to do it right the first time than to keep changing things because you still are not happy. A friend has gone that route and spent twice what I have and will not touch what I'm doing. He's looking at porters now. lol
#10
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: JLOCKHART29
LOL The lumpy idle he wants comes from an agressive cam and an agressive cam is not going to be a bolt on with nothing else done. Not to say that a lower lift, duration cam will not sound differant but that " caming" sound you talk about comes at a price. $2400 for my build including tools with me doing all the work. There are a world of cams that will give him a decent bump in ump that will bolt in with nothing else but he needs to decide right now what he wants. It is much cheaper to do it right the first time than to keep changing things because you still are not happy. A friend has gone that route and spent twice what I have and will not touch what I'm doing. He's looking at porters now. lol
LOL The lumpy idle he wants comes from an agressive cam and an agressive cam is not going to be a bolt on with nothing else done. Not to say that a lower lift, duration cam will not sound differant but that " caming" sound you talk about comes at a price. $2400 for my build including tools with me doing all the work. There are a world of cams that will give him a decent bump in ump that will bolt in with nothing else but he needs to decide right now what he wants. It is much cheaper to do it right the first time than to keep changing things because you still are not happy. A friend has gone that route and spent twice what I have and will not touch what I'm doing. He's looking at porters now. lol
![Big Grin](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)