I bought this bike from a dealer. I am the second owner. The previous owner did the build. Just curious what some of the opinions are on the cam choice and what some of the experts out there think about the build. What would you have done different?

It is a 113" motor with a Jims SE stroker crank, SE HTTC CNC heads (not the MVA style), 4.06" cylinders, 10.5 compression pistons, roller rocker arms, adjustable pushrods, S&S 585 gear drive cams, Mikuni 48mm carb. It has SE II exhaust. It has SE adjustable MAP ignition. The clutch has a Barnett pressure plate. It has 6 springs and you can adjust the pressure by installing a diffrent combination of springs. It has the barnett extra plate clutch kit. I had it put on the dyno by the dealer before I bought it. They did two runs. The top HP was 103.31 and the top TQ was 137.63. The dyno sheet stops at about 4800 rpms. The TQ climbs very steeply from about 2400 rpms and starts to level off at about 3000 rpms and stays strong with a slight incline from there until the 4800 mark where the dyno was stopped. The HP looks like a diagonal line from 2400 to the 4800 mark where the dyno was stopped. It was still climbing. I didn't get any run data with the dyno. I plan to take it somewhere and have it done again so I can get the run data. I also think I want to have the tune checked. The bike didn't come with the controller for the SE adjustable MAP ignition but I just picked one up on ebay. So? opinions? Thoughts? Anything I should check out or look into?

 

Pretty impressive torque #s. Don't see anything wrong with your build. If it runs good & doesn't ping you ought to have a lot of fun with it.

 

Hows your engine holding up these days? I just ran across this on a search. In a dyna frame this thing must fly! My crank went south so I am about to go in with a welded/balanced crank, 10.5:1, 585G cam, MVA heads with roller rockers and going from SERT to Power commander. I may stay with the 103 CI. Any suggestions if you would have done anything different/

 

Bike runs great. It has about 3500 miles on the build. For a little while I had second thoughts about the cam choice and thought of going to a 625 or 640 instead of the 585. I also considered getting rid of the SE II slip ons and getting a good 2 into 1. I don't think I'll change anything though. The bike already has more power and get up and go than I'd ever need.

 

I would agree with changing to a 2-into-1, as I am delighted with my Supermegs. The engine runs much smoother than previously and is a much sweeter ride, as well as gaining 15% torque in the low/mid range.

As for your cam, I have a 585 in my S&S 107 engine and it gives a great torque curve. S&S have only earlier this year started offering it in their 124" and they are giving excellent numbers. I suggest you think long and hard before changing it! It may well be the linch-pin of the tuner's work on your engine.

 

Good feedback on the 585. The builder swears by them. You guys think if I went from a 103 to a 107 There would be overheating issues in warmer weather?

 

No, but why go the effort and expense for 4 cubic inches? IMHO, a waste of effort and money. You are replacing the crank, cases are split, so spend the extra $300 or whatever the cost to case bore for some 4.125" cylinders and go for 117". Now's the time.

 

Because everythi.g i ever heard is going that big is killer stress on the motor. I will ask though. It would probably require about another grand in parts to do it right

 

Many 117" motors up and running with no issues. I run a all bore 107", 4.00" stroke by 4.125" bore and although it runs great, I should have installed the 4.375 crank while I was in there. Hindsight is 20-20 and I will be pulling the lower unit next winter to install the stroker crank.

As for cost, you would have the additional cost of the case bore which would be $275-$300 and, say an S&S BB kit with cylinders, piston kit, head, base and exhaust gaskets. You were going to have to bore cylinders ($120), buy piston kit ($300), head, base and exhaust gaskets ($100) anyway. But, you are right, the net additional cost for case boring ($300) and the S&S kit ($1050). So the net difference is $800; pretty close to $100 but, believe me, the difference between a 107" and a 117" is night and day.

 

In your opinion do you think longevity wise the 103 would last longer than a 117?