ORIGINAL: trigger1911

Just got my bike back with new Andrews tw37B cams installed. The feel EXACTLY like the stock ones! No difference whatsoever. Please tellm me I missed something and didnt **** away $500! Help me before I buy a Honda!

ORIGINAL: fxstb00
butr wanted to add that all the replies talk about the tw37g cams, this guy had the tw37a cams put in, chain drive. is there a big difference in power made between these two cams?

ORIGINAL: RBJones

I'm not familiar with the 37 cams, but is it possible that they don't start coming on until you get to higher rpms? If so, you won't feel any difference at lower rpms and you're likely to actually lose torque over stockat the lower rpms. Try reving higher when you shift and you may feel the power band coming on hotter than stock.

The 21 and 26 cams are designed for 88 or 95 engines with fairly low to stock compression and they work well in the 1800-3500 rpm band where most of us spend our time. Most people with these cams can really tell the difference in their low-end torque over stock cams.

Hope you work it out.

ORIGINAL: DADIBLU

PhilM,

Do you have a dyno of your current build? I was about to go with the 37g on my streetglide, but now i'm thinking twice. Trying to get a build that has a lot of torque all around, as I'm no light weight. I've been runninga SE Stage II with the 203's, SERT, and some python slip ons. Need a little more umph, because I'm tired of having to drop a gear to catch up with my group.

Thanks

ORIGINAL: DADIBLU

PhilM,

Do you have a dyno of your current build? I was about to go with the 37g on my streetglide, but now i'm thinking twice. Trying to get a build that has a lot of torque all around, as I'm no light weight. I've been running a SE Stage II with the 203's, SERT, and some python slip ons. Need a little more umph, because I'm tired of having to drop a gear to catch up with my group.

Thanks

ORIGINAL: RBJones

Sounds like you need a cam that will perform better at lower rpm like the Andrews 21 or 26. They start building torque at 1700-1800 rpms up to about 3500 rpms, which is the band most of us operate our Harley in. A common mistake people make when selecting cams is that go for the all out torque & horsepower ratings. These are great for drag racing. Problem is, hot cams don't come on until you reach over 3500 rpms, which means you've got to be doing about 75-80 mph in 5th before you get any umph. That means you'll be shifting a lot between 4th and 5th on the highway at speeds lower than that, esp on hills. And it also requires you to rev up your engine more in each gear to get the pull you're looking for.

I'd take a look at the Python's, too. If they're loud they probably hurt you at low rpms where the proper back pressure is needed to keep the exhaust from sucking out some fuel mixture. You're better off with something like the Supertrapp SEs. Read articles by Joe Minton in American Rider. He does an excellent job of explaining the torque band issue.

ORIGINAL: PhilM


Sure do.... It's pretty strong. I went with RevPerf 98" jugs & pistons, Head-Quarters Heads, and HQ-0039 cams. I also have a Dakota Kid 48mm TB, but Doug Coffey @ HQ tells be that it's too big and is actually costing me some torque. I also went with a very conservative 10:1 CR. Now I'mn wishing I had followed Dougs recomendation to build it @ 10.5:1. I was gun-shy from a previous bad experience with 10+:1 CR. Oh well.... live & learn. But it's still BY FAR the best I've ever had.

The same results are attainable from a properly built 95". (follow Doug's direction)


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