If you install that Wood 777 at 10.9 cr, you'll lift a ring land, from detonation. Guaranted.
That compression is still might stiff for an S&S .585, but as long as you have proper valve to valve, valve to piston, and collar to guide clearence,(which you do, running that .625) you may want to take a look at a Wood 8, if you could drop it .2 point.
You'd have a lot of fun with that.
Scott

 

Scott thanks for the info! You are one of the most talked about builders on HD and your opinion definitely matters! Ill probably go with the wood 8 then. Would you say it would be worth the money for the swap?

What's

 

Sorry to be a post ***** but what do you guys think of the se259s? The only reason I ask is because I can put my hands on a set at cost plus 10

 

You could look at the T-Man590 also. T-Man suggests running it in the 10.7-10.9:1 range....It could be the answer.

 

I think its similar to your 625, so may not change things much and won't solve the problem. To put S&S cams into perspective I have one of their 107" Evo motors, with a 585 cam. It gives me a very smooth running motor, with a wide flat torque curve and 101HP/107TQ on 9.5:1 CR.

I really do suggest you talk to a tuning shop. You could well have a mixed bag of components that are never going to work well together - or be just one small step from nirvana!

 

Talked to everyone under the sun and they all said sonthing different. I'm almost at the point of changing my compression that way I can go with whatever can I want. WHATS THE BEST 1/8th mile drag race cam not worrying about 2 up or street manners just needs to be able to run on pump gas

 

I went through something similar - and you know what, they are all correct, despite saying different things. Gather up all of those different opinions and also figure out what exactly are your goals and proceed with what makes sense. I also suggest you do some research on your own. There are a number of good articles and also books out there. Bill Rook's book was ok and a good starting point. For really in-depth info on the Twin Cam engine, you can't beat Donny Petersen's book.

 

Jeff- I have been doing so much research the past couple of weeks its crazy...lol. What To Do What To DO!

I called Woods To Order those TW-8 cams but they told me not to do it that I should keep my 10.9 comp ratio and go with the 777s find a better tuner and get an oil cooler. WoW that one really blew my mind!

Talked to Andrews and they said a cam swap wouldnt be worth the money and that those S&S 625s that are in it are a perfect fit...lol.

Talked to 2 people at S&S the first said I needed a bigger cam that I should go with the S&S 640 the other said the 625 wasnt his favorite cam and I should go with a Crane Cam I forgot the part # but I think it was 300-2

Talked to T-Man and he wasted to know all my head specs and more info that I had to give him that my builder hasnt given me yet so I have to call them back.

Talked to my builder and he said Im starving my motor and need a TB. And if I want more bottom end go with more gear. My issue with that is only that I do a lot of highway riding and dont want to be twisting the **** out of my motor on the hwy at 85mph. And that I hate to spend 1000 to 1200 dollars to loose more bottom end.

Basically I still have no idea what to do. I think its pathetic from a 15mph roll to 70mph a 2007 softail with pipes breather and a tune keeps up with me within about 2 bikes then at 90mph it looks like you tied the other bike to a tree. I ride very very hard and if I just want to cruise I will ride the glide. I want the fastest 103 around from 0 to 100 and after that I dont care. I plan on going to the track but not with this setup!! Basically a bar hopper bones! Im not above changing the comp ratio if you guys think there is a better set up. Once I get the info from my builder Ill post the specs of my heads. All I know at this point is those Dyno Joe heads are stock heads with bigger valves and blueprinted chambers (whatever that means) with mcrs, and my pistons are 10.9:1 KB Forged,

Im thinking I needed to do some more research.

 

You have to decide what you want to accomplish. In one sentence you say you do a lot of hwy riding and don't want to rev the motor too high @85 and in the next sentence you say if you want to cruise you will ride the glide and just want the fastest 103 0-100mph, a bar hopper/track bike. Figure out what the heck you are trying to do and then get with ONE guy/shop to help you.

 

Again, you need to look at your "mission profile." Where do you want the power to come in, etc. You need to figure out your goals, figure out your budget, then take a system oriented approach to the build. That will help you break down the all the various information you are receiving from Woods, S&S, etc. Go on amazon and pick up one of the books I mentioned; you will learn a lot about Twin Cam engine.

Look at the Dyno charts out there, use the bigboyz calculator. Determine your HP/torque goals and then you can figure out how much air needs to go through the heads. That will also determine what size TB and injectors you need. It is a very simple calculation to go from HP to injector size. I am in the middle of a 96" to 103" conversion and I am using the SE 50mm TB. That sucker comes fully built up with idle control, map sensor, temp sensor and injectors for a very reasonable price (under $400). (For H-D discounts try Horny Toad H-D or Lake Shore H-D.)

I agree with Woods on the oil cooler. Donny Petersen has about a 50 page section in his book about oil coolers that was very interesting. I added one to my bike as part of my current project.