Thoughts before I pull the trigger on this build.
#1
Thoughts before I pull the trigger on this build.
05 t/c88 Roadking with stage1 a/c,510g mackie cams,se exhaust and pc 111 turner installed in bike as of now.78 hp 87 tq
WORK TO BE DONE
88 TO 98 W/ CP 10.0.1 PISTONS DOME CC 3
.030 HEAD GASKET
05 HEADS TO BE WORKED MILD PORT ,VALVES
COMP RELEASES
85 CC HEADS
CLUTCH SPRING IF NEEDED
BIKE WILL BE DYNOED AGAIN
510G MACKIE INT OP. 22 CL 38 DUR 240 CENL98 TDC .194 EXH. OP 52 CLO 12 DUR 244 CENTL 110 TDC .138
COMP CALU. STATIC 10.07.1 CORRECTED 9.33.1 COLD CRANKING 194.1
HILLSIDE KIRBY DJI AND ALL OTHERS WILL THIS WORK WITHOUT PROBELM SUCH AS PINNING etc. I need machine work done also advice on build. SPRING IS COMING. IF IT LOOKS GOOD LET ME KNOW OR IF TOU SEE A PROBELM LET ME KNOW.IAM NOT DRAG RACING CRUISING BUT SOMETIMES I GET ON IT.
WORK TO BE DONE
88 TO 98 W/ CP 10.0.1 PISTONS DOME CC 3
.030 HEAD GASKET
05 HEADS TO BE WORKED MILD PORT ,VALVES
COMP RELEASES
85 CC HEADS
CLUTCH SPRING IF NEEDED
BIKE WILL BE DYNOED AGAIN
510G MACKIE INT OP. 22 CL 38 DUR 240 CENL98 TDC .194 EXH. OP 52 CLO 12 DUR 244 CENTL 110 TDC .138
COMP CALU. STATIC 10.07.1 CORRECTED 9.33.1 COLD CRANKING 194.1
HILLSIDE KIRBY DJI AND ALL OTHERS WILL THIS WORK WITHOUT PROBELM SUCH AS PINNING etc. I need machine work done also advice on build. SPRING IS COMING. IF IT LOOKS GOOD LET ME KNOW OR IF TOU SEE A PROBELM LET ME KNOW.IAM NOT DRAG RACING CRUISING BUT SOMETIMES I GET ON IT.
#2
According to the bigboyz calculator you are going to need a cam with an intake close around 42 deg to get the corrected compression below 9.2:1. Other than that, I like the idea of aiming for a static compression of 10.0:1. Billet cam plate? New inner cam bearings? How much runout does your crank have? SE compensator?
#3
#4
You must have assumed zero deck when you ran your calcs? I get nearly slightly lower numbers bur CCP is still over 190psi. It's subjective and a personal choice but with todays fuel and if you live where summer temps hit 100+, I would keep CCP under 190psi for a street build/cruiser. A cam with a later intake close, say 40-42 (there are several very good alternatives) would be worthy of consideration. Did you correct for altitude?
Did you check crank ruout before deciding to go with gear drive cams? I assume you will replace the inner cam bearings with upgraded Torringtons; just left that out of your description.
The SE compensator will not fit the early cranks but it would be a good idea to shave .030" off the end of the compensator nut to insure that the necessary clamping pressure is applied when torqued. It may not need it but it's cheap and will insure the compensator is tight. I have added an additonal spring to early comenators that rattle or make noise or you can replace the spring pack. There are fewer issues with the early compensators than there have been with the later ones.
As usual, JMHO. Should be a good runner.
Did you check crank ruout before deciding to go with gear drive cams? I assume you will replace the inner cam bearings with upgraded Torringtons; just left that out of your description.
The SE compensator will not fit the early cranks but it would be a good idea to shave .030" off the end of the compensator nut to insure that the necessary clamping pressure is applied when torqued. It may not need it but it's cheap and will insure the compensator is tight. I have added an additonal spring to early comenators that rattle or make noise or you can replace the spring pack. There are fewer issues with the early compensators than there have been with the later ones.
As usual, JMHO. Should be a good runner.
#5
You must have assumed zero deck when you ran your calcs? I get nearly slightly lower numbers bur CCP is still over 190psi. It's subjective and a personal choice but with todays fuel and if you live where summer temps hit 100+, I would keep CCP under 190psi for a street build/cruiser. A cam with a later intake close, say 40-42 (there are several very good alternatives) would be worthy of consideration. Did you correct for altitude?
Did you check crank ruout before deciding to go with gear drive cams? I assume you will replace the inner cam bearings with upgraded Torringtons; just left that out of your description.
The SE compensator will not fit the early cranks but it would be a good idea to shave .030" off the end of the compensator nut to insure that the necessary clamping pressure is applied when torqued. It may not need it but it's cheap and will insure the compensator is tight. I have added an additonal spring to early comenators that rattle or make noise or you can replace the spring pack. There are fewer issues with the early compensators than there have been with the later ones.
As usual, JMHO. Should be a good runner.
Did you check crank ruout before deciding to go with gear drive cams? I assume you will replace the inner cam bearings with upgraded Torringtons; just left that out of your description.
The SE compensator will not fit the early cranks but it would be a good idea to shave .030" off the end of the compensator nut to insure that the necessary clamping pressure is applied when torqued. It may not need it but it's cheap and will insure the compensator is tight. I have added an additonal spring to early comenators that rattle or make noise or you can replace the spring pack. There are fewer issues with the early compensators than there have been with the later ones.
As usual, JMHO. Should be a good runner.
#6
According to the bigboyz calculator you are going to need a cam with an intake close around 42 deg to get the corrected compression below 9.2:1. Other than that, I like the idea of aiming for a static compression of 10.0:1. Billet cam plate? New inner cam bearings? How much runout does your crank have? SE compensator?
Trending Topics
#8
You must have assumed zero deck when you ran your calcs? I get nearly slightly lower numbers bur CCP is still over 190psi. It's subjective and a personal choice but with todays fuel and if you live where summer temps hit 100+, I would keep CCP under 190psi for a street build/cruiser. A cam with a later intake close, say 40-42 (there are several very good alternatives) would be worthy of consideration. Did you correct for altitude?
Did you check crank ruout before deciding to go with gear drive cams? I assume you will replace the inner cam bearings with upgraded Torringtons; just left that out of your description.
The SE compensator will not fit the early cranks but it would be a good idea to shave .030" off the end of the compensator nut to insure that the necessary clamping pressure is applied when torqued. It may not need it but it's cheap and will insure the compensator is tight. I have added an additonal spring to early comenators that rattle or make noise or you can replace the spring pack. There are fewer issues with the early compensators than there have been with the later ones.
As usual, JMHO. Should be a good runner.
Did you check crank ruout before deciding to go with gear drive cams? I assume you will replace the inner cam bearings with upgraded Torringtons; just left that out of your description.
The SE compensator will not fit the early cranks but it would be a good idea to shave .030" off the end of the compensator nut to insure that the necessary clamping pressure is applied when torqued. It may not need it but it's cheap and will insure the compensator is tight. I have added an additonal spring to early comenators that rattle or make noise or you can replace the spring pack. There are fewer issues with the early compensators than there have been with the later ones.
As usual, JMHO. Should be a good runner.
#9
As djl said, what's "ok" is subjective. Some will say 195 psi (and ~9.6 corrected compression) is ok, some say 190 (and ~9.3 corrected comp) is safer. You don't want to go with a thicker head gasket; the tighter squish band created by the .030 head gasket will be less likely to ping than with the .040 gasket.
#10