Been shopping around for some cams for the WG ,Holy Bat crap BATMAN,weighing all options chain,gear drive etc.Why are these so dam expensive?I can build a coupla SBC for what a set of these cost, totally took me by suprise.Sure would like to go big bore and cams but don't know if I can swing cams at this rate.I guess the ? is why are these so expensive.I thought I could get a set of bolt ins for 2 or $300.I was gonna check my tensioners and thought while I was there just slip some in,can these tensioners be checked with out taking the cam plate out and push rods etc.?Thanks for the help and info

 

I wish I knew the answer to the question about how expensive this stuff is. I know what you mean about the SBC comparison. 8 Chevy pistons cost less than 2 HD pistons!

No, you can't check the inner chain tensioner without taking the cam plate out. And when I got into mine, the inner was worn much worse than the outer. You don't say how many miles you have on the bike, but if it's 25,000 or more I'd get in there and check it out.

Look around, you can find cams on ebay sometimes; I picked up a set that way. I have a set of S&S 510G cams that are going to be coming out of my bike shortly when I up my compression; they'll be available. Then you'd need the gear drive kit from S&S or Andrews or someone. Comp Cams has reasonable lifters; I've seen the recommendation on the forum to call your order in and ask for lifters manufacturered by Delphi, as they apparently use different vendors. Those cams can use the stock pushrods, and you can get gaskets from Cyco, which are very reasonable. I got that tip from a forum member here, and they're good gaskets, and very inexpensive.

Check out some of the vendors who contribute here and sponsor the forum. They're very helpful.

 

You can get a set of new Andrews 26 cams on Ebay for $240 delivered to your door, another $10 for the Andrews 37. You can check the tensioners without taking out the camplate, the front one is easily visible after taking off the cam cover,you'll need a dental mirror to check the rear tensioner.If you decide to change cams, it's not as easy as just slipping the old ones out and the new ones in. You have to remove the pushrods through the rocker box or cut them and then replace with adjustables. If you do decide to replace your cams, which is a common upgrade for diy'ers, you'll need a few other inexpensive essentials and upgrades which will help with performance and engine longevity. Depending on budget, some headwork can be done to maximize the performance of the cams.

 

I bought 2 SE 257 cams for $250 today!

 

I paid $237 delivered for my Andrews 26H cams.

 

When you guys changed out you cams did you replace the lifters or can you use the old ones?

 

I only have 15k on the bike at this time,may just stick with a bolt in cam thinking of the S&S 510 or Andrews 26 seems like the 26' are the most reasonable $ wise.Bike runs good, but like every one else just need a lil more.I allready have the stage 1 PC3,Highflow a/c and V&H longshots.Just weighing my options now, I'm so broke I can't afford to pay attention

 

Depending on mileage and the condition of the lifters, they can be reused. The lifters have roller tips, not flat tappet, so they don't cup. Check the rollers and if they are tight, they are good to go. Mark them as they come out so you can put them back in the same bore they came out of. Change inner cam bearings to full compliment Torringtons. If you are trying to save $$, just replace the OEM tensioners; they will last a lot longer since the chain has been "polished" with use. If the valve train stack up height has not been changed by milling the heads, thinner head gaskets and the selected cam has the same base circel as most "bolt in" cams do, you can reuse the OEM pushrods. Just a little more work to pull them from the top. You have to be careful with some cams labeled as "bolt in" because vendors are now labeling some higher lift cams as "bolt in" and higher lift usually means smaller base circle.