I took my 2010 Streetglide (22,500mi - SE 103" - Stage 3 at 10k last winter) in for an upgrade (cams, cam plate, oil pump and to have the heads ported and flowed). The guys in the shop tore her down and found that my pinion runout was at 9 thousandths, that my year old SE 259e cams were worn as were the lifters. There was scaring in the oil pump as well. My mechanic said they looked like 75k cams rather than 12.5k cams.

My $3k project just jumped to $6-7k.

Question 1: should I have the stock flyweels (that have already warped once) trued, pinned and welded OR should I get a new set from Dark Horse or S&S, flywheels? This is a $1,000 decision - the repair is $450, the new set is $1,450.

My plan now is to remove ALL Screaming Eagle parts and to start this build over with the new/repaired flywheels, timken bearing upgrade, new pushrods, ported heads, a new big bore kit, billet cam plate and oil pump, new cams and some hi-flow fuel injectors.

Question 2 is: I've narrowed the big bore kit to the S&S 106" kit or the T-Man 107" with Nikasil Cylinders. The Nikasil is supposed to be a lot tougher and cooler, requiring far less frequent (yet more difficult) honing. It's a $425 difference between the 106 and the 107, which way would you go if it was your bike and wallet?

Any other suggestions?

 

Can the 107 be stepped up to an oversize piston for a future jug cleanup? If the answer is no I would guess the 106 would be better so you can go over when the time comes.Hell, it's only 1 cube difference. Someone with better knowledge might speak up here, but, I am under the impression that a repaired crank from darkhorse is a pretty good piece.

 

Have Darkhorse attend to the crank.
Boring your cylinders to 107"(98" as well) is what we've done here for almost 5 years now, with great results, using our proprieitary Wiseco piston/gasket kit.
Install a cam for your riding wants/needs.
Re-work your cylinder heads to insure they have the proper air flow/compression, for your combination.
Scott

 

+1 on Scott's recommendation. Send the lower unit to Hoban Brothers, AKA Darkhorse, and let them refurbish, true and weld your OEM crank and address any other issues they see. Have them do the Timken conversion while they have the unit.

Save your money on the aftermarket BB kits and bore for 107". Select the right cams, have the heads worked and compression set, good tune and your done.

 

For that much money, why not consider the 120R complete, a new motor?

With all the bells and whistles under $6,000 and then "part out" what's left of your old motor to offset costs?

Just a thought!

 

That was my first thought. The second was a Jims 131 engine. Those mods are costing WAY too much.

 

I think you are underestimating flywheel repair price. They will need to disassemble and replace rod bearing and will want to use new rods to make it strong, usually about a grand. Any new unit should have a little work too. Mike

 

Oh ya, I missed that your expecting a 6-7K budget , the 120R is a no brainer. Especially if you can do the install yourself or have a buddy that can help with it. GMR is offering the 120R fully prepped with the crank already addressed, not absolutely neccessary but not bad insurance either. Fun factor goes thru the roof with big motors in these baggers.

 

So, to the experts responding to this post, whats the dealyo,is there room with the 107 to go a step over on the piston/jug when it comes time for a top end cleanup?
Just curious about this.

 

No, not without case boring to accomodate larger cylinders/spigots.